The Omega Seamaster is an iconic watch and one we see regularly in our workshop. The history of the model can be traced back to the 1940s and the brand’s military and professional watches produced for the British Royal Navy during World War II. These watches were highly durable and water-resistant, essential qualities for military personnel. Modern versions of the Seamaster are often linked to James Bond, who has worn an Omega Seamaster in various films since 1995.
This client’s watch arrived showing some water ingress as the glass was steaming up. The watch was not working and clearly in need of work.
Inspection of the movement revealed some damage caused by water, though the water ingress was luckily relatively minor. These Omega Seamaster watches are powered by the Omega calibre 1120 movement – an automatic mechanical watch movement of excellent quality. This is a modified version of a movement produced by ETA – one of the top watch movement manufacturers. The modifications are designed to improve performance, with 23 jewels and a three arm Glucydur balance amongst the modifications made to the base movement.
To repair the watch it is first fully disassembled and each part inspected. Wear was found on some train wheels and the reverser. We also noted too much endshake on the fourth wheel and a mainspring in need of replacement. The disassembled movement is run through our specialist watch movement cleaning machine, while the case and bracelet are cleaned in a separate ultrasonic cleaner. After cleaning, the movement is carefully reassembled and oiled with replacement parts fitted. To correct the endshake problem we adjust the fourth wheel jewel on the train bridge using a Horia jewelling tool. Once assembled the dial and hands are then refitted, before the complete movement is fitted into the case.
Once cased up we fine-tune the timekeeping to make sure the watch is as accurate as it can be. As this model is chronometer rated it is very accurate – when new it went through a series of strict tests to ensure excellent timekeeping accuracy. We always endeavour to get timekeeping as accurate as we can and various factors can affect this, including the calibre of the movement, age and condition of the watch.
One of the last elements of the job is to pressure test for water resistance. The Omega Seamaster is rated to 300m water resistant – we are able to test to this depth using our Sigma watch pressure testing machine. Finally we refit the bracelet before the watch will go on test prior to return to our client. It’s always a pleasure to work on an Omega Seamaster and this was no exception.
Yours sincerely
David Clark FGA DGA MJVA PJDip. PJGemDip.
Managing Director, JVA Registered Valuer®
W.E. Clark & Son Limited