Watch Brands Archives - W.E. Clark & Son Limited

How Do You Authenticate a Vintage Watch?

Posted on October 26, 2024 by Stephen Irvine

How to Tell a Real Watch from a Fake

The authentication of vintage watches is a growing concern among collectors and enthusiasts, especially with the prevalence of counterfeit models from popular brands like Rolex. Proper authentication relies on expertise, experience, and a systematic approach to ensure the watch is genuine. Here’s how professionals authenticate vintage timepieces.

Start with a Visual Inspection

The first step is a detailed visual assessment of the watch. Experts evaluate whether the quality aligns with what’s expected from the brand. Key elements include:

Dial Quality: Authentic watches often feature finely crafted dials with precise printing.
Hands: The style and finish should match the brand’s known characteristics.
Case Construction: Materials and craftsmanship are inspected for authenticity.
Crown Type: For instance, a water-resistant watch claiming 200m resistance should have a screw-down crown. A mismatch is a red flag.

“If a watch claims water resistance of 200m but lacks a screw-down crown, it’s a strong indicator you may be dealing with a replica.”

Serial Numbers and Cross-Referencing

Brands like Tag Heuer and Rolex often include serial and model numbers on their watches. Using tools like the Tag Heuer Extranet, professionals can verify these numbers and cross-reference details such as the dial, hands, and movement. However, it’s crucial to note that serial numbers alone don’t guarantee authenticity, as counterfeiters sometimes replicate genuine numbers.

Inspecting the Movement

Examining the movement is one of the most critical steps in authentication. High-quality Swiss movements are often replicated with increasing precision, making this step challenging even for experts. Professionals look for signs that align with the brand’s craftsmanship and design. This process often requires the expertise of trained watchmakers and valuers.

The Role of Expertise

Authentication of vintage watches can be highly complex, especially for high-end brands. Beyond the visual and technical checks, experience and access to industry knowledge play a pivotal role. Experts can draw upon databases, historical records, and their familiarity with the nuances of vintage models to determine authenticity.

Basic Checks for Buyers

If you’re considering purchasing a vintage watch, start with the following:

Quality Check: Does it feel like a premium item?
Source Legitimacy: Was it purchased from a reputable dealer?
Online Comparison: Can you find similar models online with consistent details?

Even if these checks align, professional evaluation is recommended to confirm authenticity.

Arrange a Professional Valuation

For a comprehensive assessment, it’s best to consult WE Clark Watch Repairs, who offer specialised and expert watch valuation services.

Summary

Authenticating a vintage watch requires careful inspection, technical expertise, and experience. While serial numbers and visual checks can provide clues, examining the movement and seeking professional advice is essential. Trust experts with industry knowledge and the right tools to ensure your vintage watch is genuine and accurately valued.

Looking to have your Designer Watch Serviced and repaired?

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Breitling Chronomat Evolution Chronograph Service and Repair

Posted on September 3, 2024 by Stephen Irvine

We offer a full range of repairs from our in-house watch workshop. These include part jobs like battery changes and glass replacements through to full servicing of the vast majority of brands including Omega, Tag Heuer, Longines, Rolex and, as in this instance, Breitling.

For this job we are working on a Breitling Chronomat Evolution Automatic Chronograph. This watch clearly has some kind of fault, as it is not working on arrival with us. The hands move freely and the date changes. The most likely fault is a broken mainspring, though we need to fully disassemble the movement to access the mainspring barrel to confirm this diagnosis. This is due to nature of this chronograph movement (a customised ETA 7750) – we need to remove all the chronograph work in order to fully access the mainspring barrel which lies underneath in the very depths of the mechanism.

During the course of movement disassembly it becomes apparent this watch hasn’t seen a watchmaker for some time as the oils and greases used to ensure correct functioning of the movement have started to dry up.

As we anticipated, the mainspring was found to be broken. The mainspring acts as the source of power for the watch, so a broken mainspring means a watch is not going to work. We are able to order any part to repair these movements, so we fitted a brand new mainspring. Unless in exceptional circumstances we replace the mainspring as part of a service. This ensures we have a source of power in excellent condition.

When servicing and repairing the movement it is fully disassembled and each part is checked and cleaned – going through a manual cleaning process before a cycle in our Elma Solvex RM automatic cleaning machine. Once parts are completely clean and dried, we can commence reassembly of the movement. During reassembly we follow the manufacturers technical guidelines in terms of oil and grease usage, as well as the use of other treatments such as epilame.

Alongside the movement repairs we give the case a thorough clean. We also fit replacement seals where appropriate before testing the complete case – minus the movement – in both a wet pressure tester and a dry tester to confirm water resistance. We can now reunite all elements of the watch. With the movement refitted and everything checked on the timegrapher, we can close the case back before a final dry pressure test.

With the works completed we now test the watch using an Elma Cyclomotion watch winding machine, as well as testing in static positions and for the correct functioning of all features including the chronograph and quick date change. After the testing period is complete this fantastic Breitling Chronomat Evolution Automatic Chronograph can be reunited with its owner.

Looking to have your Breitling Watch Serviced and repaired?

Tag Heuer Carrera Service and Repair

Posted on July 14, 2024 by Stephen Irvine

We have a fantastic Tag Heuer Carrera with us today for a full watch repair and service. The first models to bear the Carrera name went to market in the mid-1960s and this range is named after the Carrera Panamerica race – so Carrera watches are rooted in the history of motor racing and sports.

This particular model is relatively modern – from within the past 20 years – though it arrived with us in poor condition. Initial inspection identifies some obvious faults with the watch. Notably it is not working and missing the crown and stem. On examination of the movement it clearly hasn’t been serviced in many years, as oils and greases have dried up and wear is identified in various components including the reversing wheels and rotor bearing.

To get this watch back to excellent order it needs significant intervention. It needs a full service with all worn parts changed. New seals are needed, as well as a new crown. The case and bracelet are very scratched and scuffed, so these will be refinished too.

To service a watch it is completely stripped down before the movement parts are thoroughly cleaned. We clean parts both by hand and then using our Elma specialist watch movement cleaning machine – this way we can be certain everything is in good order and as clean as we can possibly make it. During disassembly and our initial “pre-clean” we check each component is in good order. Anything worn needs to be replaced.

The movement powering this watch is a Tag Heuer calibre 5, which is based on the ETA 2824-2 – a very reliable, quality Swiss movement. As a Tag Heuer Authorised Workshop we can obtain any parts needed to repairs these watches.

After cleaning, we can commence the movement rebuild and oiling. We use a range of oils and greases to lubricate the different parts of the watch movement as per the Tag Heuer technical guidance. Once the movement is complete, the dial and hands are refitted.

To refinish the case and bracelet we use our variable speed polishing machine alongside a variety of polishing mops and compounds. The case and bracelet are fully disassembled prior to polishing – that means we separate the bezel, case middle and back, remove the case tube and glass, and remove the bracelet end links. We then work through each part, carefully refinishing each in progressive stages. Everything is ultrasonically cleaned before we can begin a final rebuild.

The case is put together with brand new seals before we can refit the freshly serviced movement. We need to adjust the length of the stem for the case, so this is cut down to length and fitted. With the watch cased up we conduct a final test on the timegrapher before closing the case back and pressure testing for water resistance. Our Sigma pressure testing machine is capable of testing watches up to a rating of 300m – more than sufficient for this model, which passed to its original water resistance rating of 50m.

All that’s left to do is thorough testing of the watch over a number of days before we contact our client to arrange return. Another job well done!

Looking to have your Tag Watch Serviced and repaired?

Tudor Oyster Prince Watch Servicing

Posted on April 12, 2024 by David Clark

Tudor is one of the top brands we see in our workshop. Since their re-launch in 2009 (see our blog post on the history of Tudor watches for more details), the popularity of Tudor has only increased.

This model is a vintage Oyster Prince dating from the 1970s. It’s a three hand watch (hour, minute and second hand) with no date complication. The movement is an ETA 2776 automatic with custom Tudor rotor. When well maintained these movements will last very well. Indeed, they are the predecessor to the ETA 2824-2 – a movement used in many watches produced to this day.

This watch was not working on arrival with us. Inspection of the movement revealed dried oils and greases, though nothing appeared to be broken. A full service was needed to get it back into working order.

The watch is completely stripped down before the movement parts are thoroughly cleaned. We clean parts both by hand and then using a specialist watch movement cleaning machine – this way we can be certain everything is in good order and as clean as we can possibly make it.

We use an Elmasolvex RM cleaning machine during the cleaning process. This is an automatic cleaning machine which uses a series of jars containing cleaning solution and rinse to gently but effectively clean and brighten the various components.

After cleaning, rebuilding and oiling of the mechanism can begin. We use a number of different oils and greases in different parts of the mechanism. We follow the manufacturers guidance for this as appropriate, though with vintage movements we use best practice as specific technical documentation may not be available. We fitted a new mainspring as part of the service.

The case and bracelet are given a thorough ultrasonic clean and we can then reassemble the complete watch. After a period on test both using manual winding and on our automatic winding machine, we can reunite this wonderful Tudor Oyster Prince with our client.

Yours sincerely

David Clark FGA DGA MJVA PJDip. PJGemDip.

Managing Director, JVA Registered Valuer®

W.E. Clark & Son Limited

Tag Heuer Formula 1 Chronograph Repair

Posted on April 5, 2024 by David Clark

Tag Heuer in its modern form was established in 1985, though the Heuer company has existed since 1860. Watches are produced both with quartz and automatic movements in a variety of different models including the Aquaracer, Kirium, Formula 1, Link, 2000 Series and Carrera.

As a Tag Heuer Authorised Workshop we are able to repair almost any Tag Heuer watch. We are able to obtain genuine Tag Heuer parts direct from the manufacturer to repair many different faults with these watches.

This particular Tag Heuer is a vintage quartz chronograph Formula 1 model from the mid-90s. It arrived to us in poor condition, with a missing top chronograph pusher, completely worn bezel and lume missing from the minute hand.

To restore it back to a good standard we first completely stripped the watch down, removing the bezel, pushers, movement, glass and seals. We then gave the case parts a thorough ultrasonic clean to remove years of dirt and debris which had primarily built up underneath the bezel.

Once the re-usable case parts are clean we can begin the restoration work. To remove the broken pusher part we used our Horia 2015 multi-functional tool. This is a fantastic piece of kit and allows us to safely drive out the broken pusher tube. We can the use it again to fit the replacement.

Now we turn our attention to replacing all the seals. With every seal swapped out and the glass and case back refitted, we can temporarily refit the crown and check for water resistance in the pressure testing machine. This way, if anything needs further attention we don’t need to remove the movement, as it hasn’t been refitted yet.

With a pressure test pass, we’re confident everything is in good shape so we can proceed with the rest of the work.

We remove the four central hands and replace the hour and minute hand. Once the hands are refitted we can fit a new battery and case up the movement, before finally fitting the brand new bezel to finish everything off.

The final task is a pressure test before we put this excellent Tag Heuer Formula 1 watch on test for to confirm timekeeping and functionality, prior to collection by our client. It’s now ready for many more years of reliable service.

Yours sincerely

David Clark FGA DGA MJVA PJDip. PJGemDip.

Managing Director, JVA Registered Valuer®

W.E. Clark & Son Limited

Rolex 3235 movement

Posted on March 15, 2024 by David Clark

Unveiled in 2015, the Rolex Calibre 3235 represents a significant leap forward in the evolution of Rolex movements, combining cutting-edge technology with the brand’s timeless design aesthetic.

What is Special About the Rolex Calibre 3235

One of the standout features of the Calibre 3235 is its remarkable precision. Rolex is renowned for its stringent timekeeping standards, and the Calibre 3235 is no exception. The movement boasts an accuracy rate when new of -2/+2 seconds per day, surpassing the industry standard for chronometers.

This remarkable precision is achieved through a combination of factors, including a high-precision balance wheel with a blue Parachrom hairspring, and the brands patented Chronergy escapement. The movement beats at 28,800 beats per hour. This ensures exceptional stability, allowing the wearer to rely on their Rolex timepiece for precise timekeeping in any situation.

The Parachrom hairspring, made from a paramagnetic alloy, enhances the movement’s resistance to magnetic fields; a common challenge in modern environments filled with electronic devices such as mobile phones and smart speakers.

The Chronergy escapement, another hallmark of the Calibre 3235, improves energy efficiency and reduces friction. Crafted from a nickel-phosphorus alloy, this escapement enhances the movement’s longevity and reliability.

What the Calibre 3235 Means for You

With a power reserve from new of approximately 70 hours, the Calibre 3235 ensures that the timepiece can be set aside for a weekend and still maintain accurate timekeeping upon resumption of wear. Efficiency improvements include utilising a cut out design escape wheel, and smaller pallets.

In addition to its technical prowess, the Calibre 3235 is a testament to Rolex’s dedication to innovation. The movement incorporates the brand’s patented Syloxi hairspring in the balance, a silicon-based component that further enhances resistance to temperature variations and shocks. This innovation not only improves the movement’s overall performance, but also positions Rolex at the forefront of technological advancements within the watchmaking industry.

The Rolex Calibre 3235 movement stands as testament to the continuing pursuit of increased precision and innovation. As Rolex continues to push the boundaries of what is possible in horology, the Calibre 3235 serves as an example of the brand’s commitment to excellence, helping to set the standard for quality mechanical movements in the 21st century.

If you have a Rolex watch in need of service or repair, please contact us or view our Rolex watch repair and postal services.

Yours sincerely

David Clark FGA DGA MJVA PJDip. PJGemDip.

Managing Director, JVA Registered Valuer®

W.E. Clark & Son Limited

Tag Heuer Monaco Service and Refinishing

Posted on January 12, 2024 by David Clark

As a Tag Heuer Authorised Workshop we have been assessed to meet the standards required for on-site Tag Heuer repairs, covering the full range of interventions up to full servicing and repair. In this instance we’re taking care of a Tag Heuer Monaco watch, with a black dial, sub-dial seconds and a date indicator at 3 o’clock.

This watch was not working on arrival and the case was very scratched and beaten up. Initial inspection of the movement found it in dire need of a service, as the oils and greases designed to keep everything working properly were mostly dried up.

The fault stopping the watch from working turned out to be a broken mainspring – the source of power for the movement. The movement powering this watch is a Tag Heuer Calibre 6, which is based on the ETA calibre 2895-2. To repair this watch we needed to give it a full service and fit a new mainspring. We also replaced the worn reversing wheel, part of the automatic winding mechanism. Alongside the necessary remedial works to the movement, our client requested work to improve the aesthetic condition.

To clean and polish the case it is completely disassembled before we refinish each element using a variable speed polishing machine with a selection of different polishing mops and compounds. We use certain wheels to maintain the flat lines of the case. When polishing it’s often a case of “less is more” as anything which may compromise the original profile of the case is undesirable.

While it was not necessary to order case parts in this instance, As a Tag Heuer Authorised Workshop, we are able to order and additional parts we may have needed to conduct a comprehensive repair of this watch. Parts we are able to obtain include bezels, crowns, glasses, pushers and seals. Only authorised workshops can order these parts for Tag Heuer watches.

After a full service this Tag Heuer Monaco watch is back to excellent working order. The refinishing works to the case have restored the aesthetic condition to an excellent standard too. Another job well done!

Yours sincerely

David Clark FGA DGA MJVA PJDip. PJGemDip.

Managing Director, JVA Registered Valuer®

W.E. Clark & Son Limited

Patek Philippe History

Posted on December 21, 2023 by David Clark

Patek Philippe is a name synonymous with luxury, precision, and craftsmanship. Patek has a storied history spanning over 180 years. Founded in 1839 by Antoine Norbert de Patek and François Czapek in Geneva, Switzerland, the company has become one of the most prestigious and sought-after watchmakers in the world.

The early years of Patek Philippe were marked by the partnership between de Patek and Czapek. However, in 1844, Adrien Philippe, a French watchmaker, joined the company, and the brand evolved into Patek Philippe & Co. In 1851, Czapek left the company, leaving the stage for the iconic partnership between Patek and Philippe. This partnership laid the foundation for the brand’s commitment to innovation and excellence.

One of Patek Philippe’s groundbreaking inventions during this period was the keyless winding system, patented by Adrien Philippe in 1845. This revolutionary innovation eliminated the need for a key to wind the watch, paving the way for the development of modern winding mechanisms. The keyless winding system became a hallmark of Patek Philippe watches and set the brand apart from its competitors. Philippe received a coveted Bronze Medal for his inventions at the Industrial Exposition in Paris.

In 1868, Patek Philippe achieved another significant milestone by creating the first Swiss wristwatch, commissioned by Countess Koscowicz of Hungary. This early wristwatch was a bracelet watch with a baguette-shaped movement, demonstrating the brand’s commitment to pushing the boundaries of watchmaking.

The late 19th and early 20th centuries witnessed Patek Philippe’s participation in various international exhibitions, where the brand consistently received accolades for its precision and innovation. The company also established itself as a favourite among royalty and dignitaries, further cementing its reputation for producing timepieces of unparalleled quality and craftsmanship.

The Great Depression and the two World Wars presented challenges for many industries, but Patek Philippe weathered these storms with resilience. The brand continued to innovate, introducing the Calatrava collection in 1932, which remains one of its most iconic and enduring lines.

Also during this period the Stern family, who had been dial suppliers for Patek Philippe, acquired the company. The Sterns brought stability and a renewed focus on the brand’s heritage, guiding Patek Philippe through the post-war era and into the modern age.

The latter half of the 20th century saw Patek Philippe continuing to innovate with numerous interesting models and movements, including the development of the ultra-thin Caliber 240 in 1977.

Patek Philippe’s commitment to uncompromising quality is epitomised by its adherence to the Patek Philippe Seal – a set of strict self-imposed quality standards. Each Patek Philippe timepiece is a work of art, created by master craftsmen using traditional techniques combined with cutting-edge technology.

Today, Patek Philippe watches are considered not just timepieces but also symbols of prestige and exclusivity. The brand’s commitment to innovation, precision, and timeless design has made it a favourite among collectors and connoisseurs, ensuring that the legacy of Patek Philippe will continue for generations to come.

Yours sincerely

David Clark FGA DGA MJVA PJDip. PJGemDip.

Managing Director, JVA Registered Valuer®

W.E. Clark & Son Limited

Oris Watches History

Posted on December 15, 2023 by David Clark

The history of Oris watches is a testament to Swiss watchmaking excellence, innovation, and a commitment to quality craftsmanship. Founded in the picturesque town of Hölstein in Switzerland in 1904, Oris has grown from a small workshop into a globally recognized brand known for its precision timepieces. Over the past century, Oris has weathered economic challenges, evolving tastes, and changing market dynamics, all while staying true to its core values.

The early years of Oris were marked by the visionary leadership of its founders, Paul Cattin and Georges Christian. The duo shared a passion for watchmaking and a determination to create high-quality, affordable watches. These watches were produced in the former Lohner & Co watch factory and the brand name Oris came from a brook close to the factory. By 1911 Oris was the largest employer in Hölstein, employing over 300 people. Continued success marked a number of additional Oris factories opening.

During the early-mid 20th century, Oris made significant strides in horological innovation. In 1938 the brand released the ‘Big Crown,’ a watch designed for aviators that featured a large crown for easy adjustment, even when wearing gloves. This model gained immense popularity and played a vital role in Oris’ reputation for producing reliable and functional timepieces. It was around this time that Oris also started to manufacture its own escapements.

The Great Depression and World War II posed challenges for many industries, including watchmaking. However, Oris persevered and continued to innovate. To keep the business alive they moved into alarm clocks – producing an 8 day power reserve model from 1949.

Post-war years saw Oris expanding its product range and international presence. The 1950s and 1960s were marked by iconic releases like their first automatic watch with a power reserve indicator – the movement was the calibre 601. During this period, Oris also established a foothold in international markets, exporting its Swiss-made timepieces worldwide.

The quartz crisis of the 1970s posed a significant threat to the Swiss watch industry as a whole. Many traditional watchmakers struggled to adapt to the advent of quartz technology, and Oris was no exception. During this difficult period they made the decision to remain committed to mechanical watches.

In the late 1990s, Oris experienced a renaissance. The company’s management underwent changes, and a renewed focus on design and innovation led to the launch of iconic collections like the Oris Diver’s Sixty-Five and the Artelier series. These watches paid homage to the brand’s heritage while incorporating contemporary design elements and modern technology.

Oris began getting involved in major partnerships to further promote the brand. They sponsored the London Jazz festival – beginning their production of jazz themed watches, as well as sponsoring various sporting events, people and teams, such as the Williams F1 team from 2003 onwards and the record breaking freediver Carlos Coste

Today, Oris watches are recognized for their precision, reliability, and commitment to sustainability. The brand is involved in various philanthropic initiatives, including marine conservation efforts and collaborations with non-profit organizations.

In conclusion, the history of Oris watches is a story of resilience, innovation, and a commitment to tradition. From its humble beginnings in Hölstein over a century ago, Oris has evolved into an independent global watchmaking powerhouse, known for its mechanical excellence, timeless designs, and dedication to environmental responsibility. As Oris continues to write new chapters in its history, it remains a beacon of Swiss watchmaking craftsmanship and a symbol of enduring quality.

Yours sincerely

David Clark FGA DGA MJVA PJDip. PJGemDip.

Managing Director, JVA Registered Valuer®

W.E. Clark & Son Limited

Tudor watches history

Posted on October 13, 2023 by David Clark

The Tudor watch brand has a rich history dating back to 1926 when it was founded by Hans Wilsdorf, the visionary behind Rolex. Wilsdorf sought to create a more affordable line of watches without compromising on quality, and thus, Tudor was born.

The name “Tudor” was chosen to evoke the spirit of England’s Tudor period, a time known for its exploration and cultural renaissance. From its inception, Tudor focused on producing reliable timepieces that were robust, precise, and designed for everyday wear.

In the early years, Tudor watches (alongside Rolex) were known for their technical innovations. The Tudor Oyster was launched in 1947 – a patented design that provided exceptional water resistance. This innovation helped establish Tudor’s reputation for producing durable and reliable watches, capable of withstanding the most challenging conditions.

During the 1950s, Tudor further played off its sister company Rolex with the introduction of the Tudor Submariner – a diver’s watch that quickly gained popularity among both professional divers and enthusiasts. The Tudor Submariner featured a distinctive snowflake-shaped hour hand, which became an iconic design element of the brand. The watch’s robust construction and reliable performance made it a favourite among military personnel and adventurers.

In the 1960s, Tudor continued to expand its range of watches and, in 1970, introduced the manually wound Oysterdate Chronograph, a sporty timepiece with a bold and dynamic design. This Chronograph captured the spirit of the era, appealing to a younger, style-conscious audience. The brand’s commitment to producing high-quality watches at more accessible price points than Rolex helped Tudor carve out its own niche in the luxury watch market.

In the following decades, Tudor underwent various transitions and evolutions. The brand experienced a hiatus in the 1990s but made a triumphant comeback in 2009. The relaunch of Tudor was marked by the introduction of new models and an increased emphasis on design and innovation. Tudor watches began incorporating in-house movements, showcasing the brand’s commitment to craftsmanship and technical expertise.

Tudor’s revival was met with great enthusiasm, and the brand continued to expand its offerings. It introduced new collections like the Tudor Heritage line, which paid homage to the brand’s iconic models from the past while incorporating modern elements. These timepieces combined vintage aesthetics with contemporary features, appealing to watch enthusiasts who appreciated the fusion of tradition and innovation.

Today, Tudor stands as a respected and sought-after watch brand in its own right. The brand has earned a reputation for producing high-quality timepieces that offer exceptional value for money. Tudor watches are celebrated for their reliability, precision, and enduring style.

With its distinct designs, technical innovations, and commitment to affordability, Tudor has established itself as a formidable player in the luxury watch industry. The brand’s heritage and connection to Rolex provide a strong foundation, while its continuous drive for innovation and creative design keep Tudor at the forefront of horological excellence.

Do you have a Tudor watch in need of repair? Get in touch and see how we can help. Our fully equipped, in-house workshop and highly trained watchmakers are able to repair almost any make and model of watch, modern or vintage. We offer a fully insured freepost repairs service, as well as the option to drop repairs off in-person via our showrooms in Lewes and Uckfield, Sussex. We are Business Partners of the British Horological Institute and holders of a coveted Feefo Platinum Trusted Service Award – testament to the quality of our work and the service we provide.

Yours sincerely

David Clark FGA DGA MJVA PJDip. PJGemDip.

Managing Director, JVA Registered Valuer®

W.E. Clark & Son Limited