Category: Watch Case Studies

Rolex is a name synonymous with quality, so it is perhaps unsurprising we see many Rolex watches in our workshop – Maintaining a quality item makes absolute sense. These may be more recent or vintage models, and vary from daily wear watches through to those worn only on special occasions.

This watch is a ladies Rolex Yacht-Master, sadly it arrived having suffered from water ingress. In previous blog posts such as this one here we discuss how water can affect a watch movement. Depending on the severity of the water ingress and how long it has been left in the watch, damage may range from relatively minor through to very serious indeed.

This Yacht-Master was at the absolute serious end of the spectrum. Water had entered the watch through the crown and there was very little left undamaged. All movement components showed water damaged to varying levels. On top of this the dial was in a sorry state.

To restore this watch back to excellent working order we would need to replace the vast majority of movement components, complete a full service, change all seals and to restore the dial.

Through our extensive network of suppliers we were able to source everything we needed to repair the Rolex calibre 2235 movement. The only parts it was possible to save were some of the plates and bridges, which we were able to clean up following extensive hand and machine cleaning. With all the new components we can service the movement – cleaning everything in our Elma Solvex watch movement cleaning machine before reassembling and oiling as per the manufacturers specifications and best practices.

We work alongside a specialist dial restorer who was able to restore the damaged Yacht-Master dial for us. To do this the dial is completely stripped back to the base metal, before it is re-painted, the text added and the restored indices reapplied. Again, we’ve written a blog post specifically about dial restoration in the past which you can find here.

All we needed to do now was to complete the last few finishing touches – we noticed the bezel click spring needed replacing so that was done while the case was stripped apart for ultrasonic cleaning. We replaced the seals and completed both a wet and dry pressure test to confirm water resistance had been restored.

With all the case work done we just needed to rebuild the watch and double check timekeeping before putting it on test. The end result is very satisfying – taking a watch which was in a truly sorry state and bringing it back to life is always rewarding. Our client was delighted with the outcome and this Rolex Yacht-Master is ready for many more years of reliable service.

Yours sincerely

David Clark FGA DGA MJVA PJDip. PJGemDip.

Managing Director, JVA Registered Valuer®

W.E. Clark & Son Limited

At our workshop, we frequently handle vintage Garrard watch servicing. The brand is perhaps most famous for being the Crown Jeweller of the UK, in charge of maintaining the British Crown Jewels for over 150 years until 2007. Although they stopped producing watches around 20 years ago, many Garrard timepieces are still out there, needing maintenance and watch repair.

Here at WE Clark Watch Repairs we are always happy to see a Garrard watch on our bench. The quality is excellent, and their vintage watches often have solid gold cases which polish up very nicely indeed.

Sadly Garrard watches often fall victim to unsuspecting owners being told their watches can’t be repaired as Garrard no longer offers this service. As the watches often have gold cases, this sometimes means luxury watches are merely sold for scrap to gold dealers. Do try a specialist watchmaker like us before selling your Garrard watch – we can almost certainly repair it!

On our initial inspection this watch appeared to be in reasonable aesthetic condition, though it was only working intermittently. At the start of teh Garrard watch service a close look at the sub dial second hand, showed it fouling against the dial. Immediate thoughts were this could be a result of the hand being distorted, or perhaps an issue with the fourth wheel extended pivot.

Servicing the Vintage Gold Watch

During disassembly it became apparent the extended pivot was bent and no longer running completely true. In some instances it is possible to straighten these, but as a replacement fourth wheel was available we replaced the damaged part.

The movement powering this watch is a very nicely decorated version of the Unitas 6376 – a 21,600BPH 17 jewel mechanical movement. It’s a pleasure to work on these movements – nice quality and everything was in decent shape besides the damage to the fourth wheel.

As part of the Gararrd watch service we completely strip the movement down – carefully checking and cleaning each component by hand before everything is run through our specialist Elma Solvex watch movement cleaning machine. After cleaning we reassemble the movement, oiling all the necessary areas as per current industry best practices.

On top of the work to the movement, we give the case a polish to restore some shine to the 9ct gold. Once this is polished, ultrasonically cleaned and dried, we can then fit a new plexi glass dome.

With the works to the watch case and movement finished, all that’s left is to rebuild the complete watch before we can put it on test. This Garrard watch is now back to excellent working order and displays some impressive readings on our timegrapher for a watch 40+ years old.

 

Yours sincerely

David Clark FGA DGA MJVA PJDip. PJGemDip.
Managing Director, JVA Registered Valuer®
W.E. Clark & Son Limited

We receive watches in need of many different types of repair. Some watches will only need smaller jobs like a new battery or a crown fitting. Others require bigger interventions, or perhaps even multiple repairs. One of the most effective aesthetic repairs we offer is dial restoration. This is often conducted alongside full servicing. While we work on getting the watch movement back to excellent working order, we partner with one of the leading dial restorers in the UK who are capable of restoring watch dials – both modern and vintage – to excellent condition.

Dial restoration may be required if a watch is, for example, water damaged. If water enters a watch it is not only bad news for the mechanism, but it may damage the dial too. Water can affect the dial lacquer, damage the lume and even parts such as the hour indicator batons or numbers.

This Tudor watch dial was damaged all over – the lacquer was completely disintegrating and there was a very noticeable mark from where the hour hand had been dragging on the dial. After specialist restoration it’s back to fantastic condition. Our client was delighted with the outcome.

The exact process for dial restoration does vary from dial to dial, but generally it includes the following:

– The dial is photographed, stripped down and cleaned

– The dial is matched up with a corresponding dial plate (or if an exact match is not available there may be a very similar plate, we can advise on this)

– Surface work on the dial – removing pitting or scratches as best possible

– Background colour is applied, alongside specialist finishes where applicable such as sunburst or grained finishes

– Text is applied, matching the original dial as closely as possible

– The dial furniture (hour markers, date surround, other raised elements) is restored. Luminescent paint is applied where applicable

We always aim to achieve as close to the original finish as possible. That said, there may still be slight differences, though we will of course discuss these with clients before the work is conducted to make sure you are happy with the final results. As experienced watchmakers we can also advise you if dial restoration is in fact appropriate for your watch. It may not be as obvious as you think – some watches may be devalued by dial restoration, especially if the watch in question is collectable. Do get in contact with us if you have a watch in need of dial restoration – we’d be delighted to hear from you.

Yours sincerely

David Clark FGA DGA MJVA PJDip. PJGemDip.

Managing Director, JVA Registered Valuer®

W.E. Clark & Son Limited

George Daniels (1926-2011) stands as an iconic figure in the realm of horology, leaving an indelible mark on the world of watchmaking. Born in London, Daniels embarked on his journey into the world of timekeeping at the age of 15, commencing an apprenticeship that would shape the course of his illustrious career.

Despite lacking formal education in watchmaking, Daniels exhibited an innate talent and an insatiable curiosity for mechanical devices. His early twenties saw him gain recognition as a skilled and inventive craftsman.

One of his most groundbreaking contributions was the invention of the Co-Axial escapement, a transformative breakthrough that significantly enhanced the accuracy and efficiency of mechanical watches. Initially met with scepticism, Daniels’ invention ultimately revolutionized modern watchmaking, showcasing his prowess in pushing the boundaries of what was achievable in timekeeping mechanisms.

Daniels was not merely a technical innovator but also a passionate advocate for preserving traditional craftsmanship in an era dominated by mass production. Faced with the encroachment of quartz watches, he staunchly defended the art of handmade watchmaking. As documented in the excellent film “The Watchmaker’s Apprentice”, Daniels’ acted as a mentor to Roger Smith who has continued with George Daniels’ work on the Isle of Man. Roger Smith has further developed and refining the co-axial escapement in his own fantastic range of handmade watches.

One of the masterpieces that exemplified Daniels’ technical and artistic brilliance was the Space Traveller watch. This double-dial timepiece featured both mean solar time and sidereal time, along with various astronomical indications, showcasing Daniels’ ability to blend functionality with intricate design.

Daniels’ commitment to craftsmanship extended beyond his own creations; he penned the authoritative book “Watchmaking,” a seminal guide in the field that shared his knowledge and insights with aspiring watchmakers. His teachings became essential resources, ensuring that his legacy would continue to shape the next generation of horologists.

Unsurprisingly George Daniels has received numerous accolades throughout the years. These include the prestigious Gold Medal from the British Horological Institute, Gold Medal from the Worshipful Company of Clockmakers, Gold Medal from the City and Guilds of London Institute, a CBE in 1981 and even a Gold Blue Peter Badge.

In essence, George Daniels’ story is one of innovation, craftsmanship, and an unwavering dedication to the art of watchmaking. His technical brilliance and commitment to preserving tradition have left an enduring legacy that continues to inspire and guide watchmakers worldwide. Daniels’ contributions have ensured that the timeless beauty and appreciation of mechanical timepieces will persist for generations to come.

Yours sincerely

David Clark FGA DGA MJVA PJDip. PJGemDip.

Managing Director, JVA Registered Valuer®

W.E. Clark & Son Limited

We deal with a huge variety of watches in our workshop, ranging from modern Omega and Rolex through to vintage wrist and pocket watches. Vintage watches often need extra special care and attention, especially if the watch in question has not been regularly serviced over the years.

In this particular instance we received a vintage Roamer watch in for full restoration. We needed to get the watch up and running, restore the dial, supply and fit a new set of hands, fit a new glass, new crown and re-plate the gold-plated case.

While the dial was being restored by our specialist dial restorer, the movement could be serviced. It is completely disassembled and pre-cleaned, with each part inspected. The mainspring was “set” –  This is when the mainspring has, in effect, lost much of it’s spring. The upshot being a significant reduction in power. It was also an old carbon steel mainspring – these are more prone to breaking. We were able to source an appropriate modern equivalent mainspring for this calibre of movement. It was clear this movement hadn’t been serviced for some time – most of the oils and greases were completely dried up and needed to be manually scraped off as part of the pre-cleaning process.

Once fully disassembled the movement is run through our specialist watch movement cleaning machine. After cleaning the movement is carefully reassembled and oiled. Once the dial restoration was complete we were able to reunite it with the movement, as well as fit some new hands. These needed a little adjustment to fit the watch correctly, as the holes where the hour and minute hand fit over the hour wheel and cannon pinion respectively were too large. To tighten the hands we use a staking set and the correct type of punch. This slightly tightens the hands enough to ensure a snug fit.

To restore the gold-plated case the old, worn plating first needed to be removed before new plating could be applied. Layers of other metals are used underneath the gold plating to ensure a good molecular bond between the metals. After these have been applied the final gold plating layer can be added. When electro-plating everything has to be immaculately clean and free from grease, as even holding the case with your hands may impart oils which affect the plated layer.

With the now re-plated case we can then fit a new glass ready for the entire watch to be completely reassembled along with a new gold plated crown. Once everything is reunited the watch is back to excellent condition both inside and out. All that’s left is to test this fantastic vintage Roamer watch before it can be returned to our client.

Yours sincerely

David Clark FGA DGA MJVA PJDip. PJGemDip.

Managing Director, JVA Registered Valuer®

W.E. Clark & Son Limited

We are able to offer a comprehensive repairs service for Tag Heuer watches. Our workshop is a Tag Heuer Authorised Workshop – this means we have been assessed to meet the standards required for on-site Tag Heuer repairs, covering the full range of interventions up to full servicing and repair.

This Tag Heuer is one of the Aquaracer range – these were introduced in 2004 and their roots stem from the Heuer Dive watches of the 1980s. This particular model is fairly recent – dating from 2016 and it had never been serviced since purchase.

On our initial inspection the watch appeared to be in decent aesthetic condition, though it was no longer working. The hand setting worked ok, as did the date change.

On opening the case back the fault stopping the watch from working presented itself – a screw had worked its way out of the train wheel bridge and wedged itself under the balance wheel. This can happen if screws aren’t tightened to the correct torque, or a shock may cause them to come loose. After removing the screw the watch started working, though it still needed a service to restore it back to excellent working order.

The movement this Aquaracer uses is the Tag Heuer Calibre 5 – this version is based on the Sellita SW200-1 movement. As part of the service we replaced the mainspring, ratchet wheel and both reversers.

As a Tag Heuer Authorised Workshop, we are able to order the required parts to complete this repair direct from the manufacturer. While they were not required in this instance, we are able to obtain case parts too, such as bezels, crowns, glasses, pushers and seals. Only authorised workshops can order these parts for Tag Heuer watches.

After a full service this Tag Heuer Aquaracer Calibre 5 watch tests to within chronometer standard on our Witschi Watch Expert 4 timing machine! After closing the case back for the final time we pressure test the watch to its original rating of 300m before testing timekeeping performance using our Elma Cyclomotion automatic watch winder over a number of days. After final quality control it’s ready to collect. Another lovely watch restored back to excellent working order.

Yours sincerely

David Clark FGA DGA MJVA PJDip. PJGemDip.

Managing Director, JVA Registered Valuer®

W.E. Clark & Son Limited

The refinishing of watch cases and bracelets is a skill set in its own right, separate from that of watchmaking. There are certain makes and models of watch we see for refinishing more than others – notable examples being the Rolex Datejust, Submariner and the Omega Seamaster. With each watch we need to use different skills, polishing wheels, mops and compounds to restore the finish back to a good standard.

When refinishing and restoring the aesthetic condition of a watch case and bracelet it is important to balance the level of wear and scratching, with the originality of the piece and value of the item. One must be realistic as to the level of finish it is possible to achieve.

We have the skills needed to refinish a range of different metals and style of watch case and bracelet. We also have the experience to advise when it’s best not to polish, or when to do so but only lightly. It can be a fine line, but unnecessary, ill-advised or poor-quality polishing can negatively impact on the value of a watch and be detrimental to the overall appearance.

This watch is a modern ladies Omega Constellation with a bicolour case and bracelet. The bracelet shows considerable scratching, though we should be able to improve on this quite significantly.

The first step was to remove the movement from the case. Once the movement is removed we can disassemble the case and bracelet. Everything is taken apart and we disassemble the bracelet down to its individual components, separating out the gold bars from the steel links by removing the pins and tubes.

The refinishing process involves refinishing each component using our Durston double polishing motor. For the gold bars we use a special mop with a compound designed to give a stunning bright finish. To restore the brushed finish of the steel links we remove any major marks by hand before using a specialist graining wheel. Each link also has a slight high polished bevelled edge. We carefully polish this section taking care not to round the edge.

Once the refinishing is complete, a final ultrasonic clean is given. All the pins and tubes are also cleaned, this ensures everything is absolutely spotless. Once all components are dry we can begin the reassembly process, putting together the bracelet and refitting the movement into the case. We can then test for water resistance. Once fully reassembled, the results are truly stunning – a vast improvement and our client is sure to be delighted.

Yours sincerely

David Clark FGA DGA MJVA PJDip. PJGemDip.

Managing Director, JVA Registered Valuer®

W.E. Clark & Son Limited