Category: Watch Case Studies

From vintage pieces over 100 years old, through to modern watches, we see a huge range of timepieces in our workshop. In this instance we’re looking at a Tissot Couturier watch from within the past 15 years or so.

Tissot are a Swiss watch manufacturer, founded in Le Locle in 1853. Nowadays they produces a broad range of watches – both quartz and mechanical – and cater towards the mid-value price point of the market. Notable models include the T-Touch, PR100, PRS 516, PRC 200, T-Wave and Le Locle.

This Tissot Couturier is an automatic watch, and was not functional on arrival. Initial inspection suggested a broken mainspring – something we’d later confirm during disassembly. The movement powering this watch is made by ETA – a calibre 2834-2. This is a 25 jewel automatic movement with a day-date complication.

During disassembly we check everything as we go to make sure it’s in good order. As mentioned we found the mainspring – the source of power for the movement – to be broken. A broken mainspring means a watch will not function at all. This will obviously need to be replaced. We check and pre-clean the movement by hand during the disassembly process before the movement is put through a cleaning cycle in our cleaning machine.

During reassembly the movement is rebuilt using certain oils and greases to lubricate the mechanism. We follow the manufacturer’s specification for the correct oils and greases to ensure optimal performance. A new mainspring correct for this calibre is fitted as part of the work, and once reassembled we can test the movement using our Witschi Watch Expert IV timegrapher, before putting the complete watch through pressure testing for water resistance.

Yours sincerely

David Clark FGA DGA MJVA PJDip. PJGemDip.

Managing Director, JVA Registered Valuer®

W.E. Clark & Son Limited

One popular service we offer in our workshop is the polishing and refinishing of the case and bracelet of a watch. This involves using a selection of different polishing mops, wheels and compounds to restore the finish of your watch back to a good standard.

A recent job involved doing just this to a Rolex Explorer watch. This watch didn’t look like it had seen particularly heavy wear, so in these instances it is possible to achieve an excellent standard of finish. Were, for example, the watch to be heavily dented and scratched, a certain level of realistic expectations would be required as the refinishing work would be a compromise between maintaining the shape and dimensions of the case vs removing all of the various dents and scratches.

The first step was to remove the movement from the case. Once the movement is removed we can disassemble the case – so this means removing the bezel, glass and case tube. Once the case is down to its individual components, we are able to give everything a clean before we begin the polishing process.

The refinishing process involves progressively polishing the different elements of the case using a few different techniques. This is all done using our Twin-Spindle polishing machine. Our preference is to use Menzerna polishing compounds, though there are other manufacturers who offer comparable products. We also need to apply a grained finish to parts like the bracelet. This is done with a Bergeon graining wheel of the correct type to match the original finish.

Once the refinishing of each part of the case and bracelet are complete, they are given an ultrasonic clean. Each part is then steam cleaned to ensure everything is spotless before reassembly.

Reassembling the case is a matter of initially refitting the case tube and glass, before then fitting the friction fit bezel. Once this is done the movement can be re-installed into the case, before the case back is fitted and the watch tested for water resistance. The watch is also checked on our timegrapher to confirm the timekeeping is still excellent. We now refit the bracelet. Once fully reassembled, this watch is ready for testing before release to our client.

Yours sincerely

David Clark FGA DGA MJVA PJDip. PJGemDip.

Managing Director, JVA Registered Valuer®

W.E. Clark & Son Limited

A top brand we regularly see in our workshop is Cartier. Cartier watches are excellent quality and the brand is synonymous with stunning design, style and sophistication.

This watch is one of Cartier’s most popular models – the Tank Francaise. This watch arrived working but not keeping time. The case and bracelet were scratched all over, so a full service of the movement as well as a case and bracelet refinish was in order.

The movement powering this watch is based on the ETA 2000-1. This is a small automatic movement with bidirectional winding, hacking and a 40 hour power reserve.

The watch is completely stripped down before the movement parts are thoroughly cleaned. We clean parts both by hand and then using a specialist watch movement cleaning machine – this way we can be certain everything is in good order and as clean as we can possibly make it.

After cleaning, rebuilding and oiling of the mechanism can begin. We use a number of different oils and greases in different parts of the mechanism. We follow the manufacturers guidance for this, including the use of epilame treatment on a number of parts to prevent the spread of oils.

To refinish the case and bracelet, these are disassembled and given a thorough ultrasonic clean before we commence the refinishing process. To do this we use our variable speed polishing machine in combination with a variety of different polishing mops and compounds. To achieve the brushed finish we mask off the polished sections and use a special graining wheel on the relevant sections of the case and bracelet. After a final ultrasonic clean we can reassemble the watch.

After reassemble and testing, we check for water resistance using our Sigma pressure testing machine.

Yours sincerely

David Clark FGA DGA MJVA PJDip. PJGemDip.

Managing Director, JVA Registered Valuer®

W.E. Clark & Son Limited

Rolex as a brand need no introduction – their watches are exceptional quality and well worth maintaining. They often become heirlooms passed down between generations. In this instance we have a vintage model with an unusual custom Mickey Mouse dial on the bench.

This watch is an Oysterdate Precision, model reference 6694. It dates from 1982, so it’s just over 40 years old. On arrival with us it was ticking, though timekeeping was extremely unreliable. There was also a problem with the crown, which would no longer screw down onto the case tube. The movement is a calibre 1225 – a Rolex manual wind movement with a sweep seconds and date function.

On inspection of the movement it was clear this watch had not been serviced in many years. The oils and greases crucial for the correct functioning of the watch were completely dried up. The fault with the crown was also identified – the thread on the crown was completely worn out. We are able to source and fit replacement crowns for this model, so this part was ordered in.

A full service of the movement involves complete disassembly, with each part carefully inspected for wear. Once everything is stripped down, we run the parts through our specialist watch movement cleaning machine. The cleaning machine uses a series of jars containing specialised cleaning or rinsing fluids to give everything a thorough clean. We combine the use of the cleaning machine with a form of manual cleaning during the disassembly process – this way be can be certain we’ll have spotlessly clean parts when we get to the reassembly stage.

After cleaning, the movement is carefully reassembled and oiled, plus we fitted a new mainspring. A mainspring in excellent condition is crucial to ensure a properly functioning watch – the mainspring is the source of power for the movement after all. Once everything is back together we adjust and test the movement, before the dial and hands are fitted.

The watch case and bracelet are thoroughly cleaned and dried, before the watch is fully reassembled, plus the replacement crown fitted.

For watches like this we recommend servicing every 3-5 years. This is to ensure optimal performance of the movement (as the oils and greases needed to keep the movement running properly need to be kept fresh) and to allow the movement to be checked for signs of wear and tear.

After a full service and new mainspring, a clean of the case and bracelet, plus a new crown, this beautiful Rolex Mickey Mouse Oysterdate Precision is running very nicely once again.

Yours sincerely

David Clark DGA PJDip PJGemDip CertGA

Managing Director

W.E. Clark & Son Limited

We often see Tudor watches in our workshop. Tudor as a brand need no introduction – the brand is often uttered in the same breath as Rolex, and Tudor is likewise synonymous with high-quality, luxury timepieces. These watches are well worth maintaining and often become heirlooms passed down between generations. In this instance we have a vintage model in rather poor condition – a Tudor Oysterthin.

On initial assessment this watch was not functional. Removal of the case back opened a bit of a horror show, with the Tudor calibre 2402 manual wind movement showing significant water damage. Almost everything was damaged, with only a few components suitable for re-use. When a watch is so damaged, our options for repair are limited. We of course want to preserve as much of the original watch as possible, but a watch is also a functional item, so it needs to work correctly! We secured a vintage donor movement of the same calibre to use for parts – we did everything possible to preserve originality but parts like the water damaged wheels absolutely needed to be replaced.

The parts we were able to save from the original movement were thoroughly de-rusted and cleaned by hand, before going through a cycle in the watch movement cleaning machine. These were then checked after cleaning, before combining with the donor components for another round in the cleaning machine. After cleaning the movement is carefully reassembled and oiled, plus we fitted a new mainspring. A mainspring in excellent condition is crucial to ensure a properly functioning watch – the mainspring is the source of power for the movement after all. Once everything is back together we adjust and test the movement, before the dial and hands – which have been given a gentle clean but not a complete restoration, as per our clients request – are refitted and the watch is cased up.

For watches like this we recommend servicing every 3-5 years. This is to ensure optimal performance of the movement (as the oils and greases needed to keep the movement running properly need to be kept fresh) and to allow the movement to be checked for signs of wear and tear.

Yours sincerely

David Clark DGA PJDip PJGemDip CertGA

Managing Director

W.E. Clark & Son Limited

Tag Heuer watches are one of the brands we see the most in our workshop. We receive watches from across their full range of models – be it a Monaco, 2000 Series, F1, Link or Aquaracer. As we hold a parts account with Tag Heuer we are able to obtain genuine Tag Heuer parts to repair many different faults with these watches.

This particular Tag Heuer watch is an Aquaracer with a stainless steel case and bracelet. It’s a quartz three hand model – as in it has an hour, minute and second hand, as well as a date located at the conventional 3 o’clock position. It was working on arrival, though the case and bracelet showed significant amount of wear.

To restore this watch back to excellent condition we refurbished the case and bracelet, checked and tested the movement, fitted a new battery and fitted new seals before a final pressure test to confirm water resistance.

To refinish the case and bracelet we completely disassemble the watch – removing each case part we can, before progressively refinishing each component. We use our Durston double polishing motor and work our way through different polishing compounds and mops. To recreate the brushed finish we need to mask off the high polished sections, before then using a graining wheel on the respective sections of the case and bracelet. Once the refinishing of each part of the case is complete, they are given an ultrasonic clean. Each part is then steam cleaned to ensure everything is spotless before reassembly.

Reassembling the watch is a matter of simply reversing the disassembly, though we fit the new seals as we go and ensure grease is applied where necessary.

When fitting a new battery we found the old one was just starting to leak, so it was fortuitous the watch was with us before any major damage could be caused. We replaced the battery isolator and made sure everything was clean before proceeding onto testing the movement. Testing involves using our Elma Watch-Master quartz testing machine. We are able to compare the readings from a variety of tests to the manufacturers specifications in order to confirm the watch is operating as it should be.

After the work is complete, the results speak for themselves – a significant improvement! Finally we pressure tested the watch using our state-of-the-art Sigma pressure testing machine. This allows us to test watches up to a rating of 300m water resistant – the original water resistance rating for this Tag Heuer Aquaracer.

If you have a Tag Heuer Aquaracer in need of repair – do get in touch. We offer a comprehensive range of watch repairs. We cater to clients all around the UK thanks to our fully insured freepost watch repairs service, as well as to walk in clients through our showrooms in Lewes and Uckfield, Sussex.  As a Feefo Platinum Trusted Service Award accredited business, you can be confident when dealing with us. We are also Business Partners of the British Horological Institute – the standard bearers for quality watchmaking and repairs in the UK.

Yours sincerely

David Clark DGA PJDip PJGemDip CertGA

Managing Director

W.E. Clark & Son Limited

We offer a full range of repairs in our fully equipped watch workshop – from part jobs like battery replacement through to full servicing of the vast majority of brands including Omega, Tag Heuer, Breitling and Rolex.

This job was an interesting one as it involved working on a Hanhart Pioneer Chronograph which was only a few months old. As our client had purchased the watch abroad, he wanted us to take care of the repair rather than ship the watch to another country and potentially lose his watch for a number of months. It arrived in the workshop completely stopped – extremely unusual for an almost new watch! Changing the position of the watch found it to start and stop depending on the position being tested.

On opening the case the movement was identified as a Sellita SW-510 – a mechanical chronograph movement based on the 7750 – a chronograph movement we regularly work on. The problem almost immediately presented itself, as with the watch dial down, it was working, albeit with a notable issue – the top balance jewel was moving around in the Incabloc shock protection setting.

Before the introduction of shock protection, one of the most common causes of a mechanical watch stopping was an impact or shock causing the balance to break. A watch balance generally has a large diameter and mass, but in order to keep friction to an absolute minimum it rotates on fine pivots. As such, were the watch to receive a knock, this combination of factors makes the balance prime for a broken pivot.

The Incabloc system is highly effective – it provides protection against shocks from all directions. It does this by allowing the chaton – in which the jewels sit (and the balance pivot rotates in the jewel hole) – to move, rather than the shock to be absorbed directly by the pivots.

We opened the lyre-shaped Incabloc spring and removed the jewel, checking Bloc for damage. With no damage noted, everything was reseated and the spring secured. The balance now was oscillating as it should, with no lateral movement of the jewels in the Bloc. Our conclusion is that the watch received a fairly substantial knock and the Incabloc system worked – protecting the balance though compromising the correct seating of the spring itself.

Note there are numerous other shock protection systems besides Incabloc, though they tend to operate based on a similar principle. Other major systems include Kif, Novodiac, Paraflex and Duofix.

After checking the rest of the movement and testing the watch on our timegrapher, we were happy to re-fit the case back and pressure test this fantastic Hanhart watch for water resistance. Now it goes “on test” to confirm our intervention has fully corrected the fault before return to our client.

Do you have a Hanhart watch in need of repair? Here at WE Clark Watch Repairs we are experts in the repair of all makes and models of watch – from vintage pocket watches through to modern big name brands like Tag Heuer, Omega and Rolex. We offer a fully insured freepost watch repairs service to clients all around the UK. As holders of a Feefo Platinum Trusted Service Award and business partners of the British Horological Institute you can be confident in the service we provide.

Yours sincerely

David Clark DGA PJDip PJGemDip CertGA

Managing Director

W.E. Clark & Son Limited

We receive a huge spectrum of watches through our stores in Lewes and Uckfield, as well as through our postal repairs service. The postal service is fully insured and completely free – Using this we accept repairs from all around the UK. One such repair involved fully restoring this vintage Omega Seamaster Cosmic.

This model (a 166.026) was introduced by Omega in 1967. It’s a monocoque design – so the stainless steel case is all one piece. This design was used to make water and dust ingress more difficult. To access the movement we need to remove the tension ring armoured dome using a special tool, and ordinarily we need to remove the crown, though in this instance it’s completely missing. As you can see from the image, this watch arrived with us in very poor condition. The crown, case pipe (the part the crown fits onto) and outer part of the stem were all missing. This leaves a hole in the side of the case and that meant water and other debris were able to get into the movement. There was also damage to the dial – so this needed restoration work.

The movement used in this model is the fantastic Omega calibre 565. This is an automatic movement with a quick set date function. Omega calibres of this era are generally well thought of and this one is no exception. Inspection of the movement found the damage caused by the missing crown to luckily be limited to the area around the stem. The rest of the movement was still in need of a thorough service plus a fresh mainspring.

To restore this watch we fully disassembled the movement, checked and cleaned parts by hand first, before then using our specialist watch movement cleaning machine. Once everything is thoroughly clean we can begin the rebuild. We fit a new mainspring as well as replacing the damaged inner stem. We were able to clean up the many of the other components, so these were re-used. The dial is taken care of by our specialist dial restorer – it is completely stripped back, cleaned and restored.

Once everything is back together we need to adjust the timekeeping. Setting up these watches is a bit more work than with a standard two or three part case. In this instance we need to adjust the movement, then fit it into the case. Any further adjustment requires the movement to be completely removed from the case again.

Prior to refitting the movement we fit a new case tube to the case and ensure our supplied outer stem and branded Omega crown fit correctly. Now we just need to case everything up for the last time. At this point we fit a replacement tension ring armoured glass using our glass press tool. Now, fully back together and working properly, this watch will provide many more years of reliable service for our client.

Do you have an Omega Seamaster in need of repair? From vintage to modern pieces, we are able to help. Thanks to our fully insured, freepost watch repairs service we are able to accept watches from all around the UK. We also accept repairs through our two stores in Lewes and Uckfield, Sussex. Our business is long established and we are Business Partners of the British Horological Institute, as well as holders of a coveted Feefo Platinum Trusted Service Award. You can be confident when dealing with us.

Yours sincerely

David Clark DGA PJDip PJGemDip CertGA

Managing Director

W.E. Clark & Son Limited