Category: Watch Case Studies

This watch is a vintage Longines Ultra-Chron model dating from the 1970s. It has a gold plated case, a cross-hair dial and a date at 3 o’clock. The Ultra-Chron is an automatic high-beat watch. This means the watch effectively ticks more per second than many other mechanical watches. The old standard for mechanical watches is to run at 18,000 BPH. This is 2.5Hz, or 5 beats per second. The Ultra-Chron doubles this – running at 36,000BPH – 5Hz or 10 beats per second. This – in theory – makes it easier for the watch to attain an excellent level of timekeeping accuracy. It also makes the second hand run more smoothly if you closely examine it.

There are however disadvantages to high beat movements, The fact the watch is beating so fast means the need for regular servicing is much more important, as parts will wear out considerably quicker. Indeed, there’s still a conversation ongoing about which standard is best, with the four main standards we see being 18,000, 21,600, 28,800 and 36,000 BPH.

On inspection of this particular watch, the amplitude of the balance was found to be very poor, This is often a sign a watch is in need of a thorough service. We also noted the date change was not working properly, so this required some attention.

To service the movement it is completely disassembled and pre-cleaned, with each part inspected. The disassembled movement is then run through our specialist watch movement cleaning machine, while the case was cleaned in an ultrasonic cleaner. After an initial clean everything is checked before it then goes through a final cleaning cycle.

The movement powering this watch is a Longines calibre 461. This is a 17 jewel automatic movement of good quality. Inspection of the date change components found a replacement spring had previously been fitted, and this was too weak to provide the correct, snappy date change required. We were able to source and fit a replacement and this resolved the problem.

After all the movement parts are completely clean, it’s time to begin reassembly and oiling. The movement is rebuilt in stages, with everything checked to ensure it is just as it should be before moving on to the next stage. Once the movement is back together, the dial and hands are then refitted before the watch is cased up.

Do you have a Longines, or in fact any vintage watch in need of repair? Get in contact with us to see how we can help. We are able to repair almost any watch and we offer a comprehensive watch repair service. We cater to clients all around the UK thanks to our fully insured freepost watch repairs service. You can also bring watches in to our showrooms based in Lewes and Uckfield, Sussex. As Business Partners of the British Horological Institute and a Feefo Platinum Trusted Service Award accredited business, you can be confident when dealing with us.

Yours sincerely

David Clark DGA PJDip PJGemDip CertGA

Managing Director

W.E. Clark & Son Limited

In the first part of this blog post we covered some of the potential causes of water damage. But what should you do if the worst does happen and water ingress occurs? In this part we’ll look at what to do (and what not to do!) to give your watch the best chance of being successfully repaired.

If you notice water has made its way into your watch, firstly, immediately stop using the watch. That means take the watch off and under no circumstances should you start pressing buttons or attempting to pull the crown out, adjust the hands etc. This could cause more damage to the movement.

It’s very important you get in contact with a reputable watchmaker like us as soon as you possibly can. Depending on the level of exposure and type of water, your watch may need to be urgently booked in for attention.

If you wait a week before contacting a watchmaker, this gives the water a week to do further damage to the sensitive mechanism. If your watch has been exposed to salt water, this is enough time to completely destroy the movement. When you’re dealing with small parts even one drop of freshwater is enough to ruin numerous components in a short period of time.

Once water has entered the watch, do not attempt to remove it yourself. Don’t heat the watch on a radiator or give it a shake/spin. Doing so will only cause further damage. Until you’re able to get to a watchmaker, putting the watch in a bag with some kind of absorbent like silica gel won’t do any harm, but it certainly won’t fully deal with the problem. There is no short cut solution – we’ve seen numerous watches which have been kept in a bag of rice to dry them out, but on opening the back we find the movement swimming in water.

As you can see, water ingress can only be properly dealt with by a professional watchmaker. Water ingress can result in a hefty repair bill even if the watch is promptly disassembled – this is because watch parts need to be in excellent condition to work correctly. We strongly encourage our clients to have their watches regularly serviced (usually every 3-5 years) and to have water resistance tested every year. By doing so your watch is checked and unless there’s user error (eg. The crown is left pulled out, glass damaged etc.) you can be confident in the level of water resistance your watch is able to provide.

Yours sincerely

David Clark DGA PJDip PJGemDip CertGA

Managing Director

W.E. Clark & Son Limited

In the world of watches you’ll undoubtedly be familiar with the big names like Rolex, Omega, Tag Heuer and Breitling. What you may not realise is quite how many micro-brands there are. These smaller watch companies produce watches ranging from super high-end, through to cheaper quartz watches. Each brand has its own respective niche and story to tell.

The watch on the bench today is made by Halios – a relatively new company, with the brand starting in 2009. Halios watches were influenced by conversations with online watch forum members. By talking directly with the target market, the watches were tailored to suit their thoughts and suggestions.

This model is a Seaforth – a great looking, water resistant, automatic watch. It’s powered by an ETA 2824-2 movement. The 2824-2 is a reliable, good quality automatic movement, as found in watches by some of the brands listed above, like Tag Heuer and Breitling.

Initial inspection revealed the watch to be working, albeit poorly based on the readings from our timegrapher testing machine. A full service and replacement mainspring was required.

The watch is completely stripped down before the movement parts are thoroughly cleaned. We clean parts both by hand and then using a specialist watch movement cleaning machine – this way we can be certain everything is in good order and as clean as we can possibly make it.

After cleaning, rebuilding and oiling of the mechanism can begin. We use a number of different oils and greases in different parts of the mechanism. We follow the manufacturers guidance for this, including the use of epilame treatment on a number of parts to prevent the spread of oils.

The case is given a thorough ultrasonic clean and we then reassemble the complete watch. After pressure testing for water resistance, this wonderful Halios Seaforth goes on our automatic watch testing machine as part of its final testing before release to our client.

Yours sincerely

David Clark DGA PJDip PJGemDip CertGA

Managing Director

W.E. Clark & Son Limited

We are experienced in the repair of almost every type and brand of watch here at WE Clark Watch Repairs. Perhaps the most common job we see on a day-to-day basis is replacing the watch battery.

It’s important to have your watch battery replaced by someone who knows what they’re doing for a variety of reasons. A professional watchmaker will have received proper training to look after your watch. In particular, if you have a nice watch from a prestigious brand, it really is worth letting someone with the appropriate training look it for you.

For example, trained watchmakers will, as part of the battery replacement service: check the entire watch, use good quality batteries, use the correct type of battery (you’d be amazed how often the incorrect battery is fitted), use correct methods fit the battery (eg. You won’t end up with fingerprints all over the insides of your watch) and use correct tooling (which will prevent damage to the case back and movement). As trained watchmakers we are fully capable of looking after your treasured watch.

Alongside replacing the battery, we offer a pressure testing service for water resistant models. If you use your watch in water, it will need pressure testing to confirm it is sealed and suitable for use in water. A battery replacement and pressure testing is more involved than a standard battery replacement. In order for a watch to be sealed for use in water, all the seals must be in good condition and the case must be clean and not damaged in any way which could compromise its water resistance.

Once we are happy everything looks good to proceed with pressure testing, we put the watch in our top quality Sigma pressure testing machine. This machine is able to test the water resistance of watches up to a rating of 300m (30BAR). The test is conducted using air pressure, and the machine tests the deformation of the case. As this is a “dry” test, watches are able to be tested complete – i.e. with the movement inside the case.

We do also have the option to conduct a “wet” test. We most commonly use this machine to pinpoint where a seal is failing on a watch. A watch case without the movement is attached inside the machine and we then increase the air pressure. If there’s a failing seal, this means the inside of the case will be pressurised. The case is then immersed in water and the pressure is slowly released. A steady stream of bubbles will be visible at the location of the damaged seal.

Suffice to say, we offer a comprehensive watch battery replacement service. To take advantage of our expert watchmakers, quality tooling and state-of-the-art equipment, do get in touch. We are able to repair almost any watch and we offer a comprehensive watch repair service. We cater to clients all around the UK thanks to our fully insured freepost watch repairs service. As Business Partners of the British Horological Institute and a Feefo Platinum Trusted Service Award accredited business, you can be confident when dealing with us.

Yours sincerely

David Clark DGA PJDip PJGemDip CertGA

Managing Director

W.E. Clark & Son Limited

We often see Rolex watches in our workshop. Rolex as a brand need no introduction – the brand is synonymous with high-quality, luxury timepieces. These watches are well worth maintaining and often become heirlooms passed down between generations. In this instance we have a vintage model – a Rolex Oyster Precision for repair.

On initial assessment this watch was barely ticking. Inspection of the calibre 1210 manual wind movement showed the oils and greases crucial for the correct functioning of the watch were completely dried up. This watch clearly hadn’t been serviced in many years, so we needed to change that!

A full service involves complete disassembly of the movement, with each part carefully inspected for wear. Once everything is stripped down, we run the parts through our specialist watch movement cleaning machine. The cleaning machine uses a series of jars containing specialised cleaning or rinsing fluids to give everything a thorough clean. We combine the use of the cleaning machine with a form of manual cleaning during the disassembly process – this way be can be certain we’ll have spotlessly clean parts when we get to the reassembly stage.

After cleaning, the movement is carefully reassembled and oiled, plus we fitted a new mainspring as the old one was out of shape. A mainspring in excellent condition is crucial to ensure a properly functioning watch – the mainspring is the source of power for the movement after all. Once everything is back together we adjust and test the movement, before the dial and hands are fitted.

The watch case is given a light polish and thoroughly cleaned and dried, before the watch is fully reassembled. Now the complete watch can be tested.

For watches like this we recommend servicing every 3-5 years. This is to ensure optimal performance of the movement (as the oils and greases needed to keep the movement running properly need to be kept fresh) and to allow the movement to be checked for signs of wear and tear.

After a full service and new mainspring plus a clean and polish of the case, this beautiful Rolex is running very nicely once again.

Yours sincerely

David Clark DGA PJDip PJGemDip CertGA

Managing Director

W.E. Clark & Son Limited

Rolex make exceptional quality, luxury timepieces. Their watches stand the test of time, given due care and attention, with vintage Rolex watches often becoming family heirlooms passed down between generations.

This watch is a vintage Rolex Datejust, using the Rolex calibre 3035 movement. This movement was introduced in 1977 and Rolex used it for just over ten years before it was succeeded by the calibre 3135. The calibre 3035 is a 27 jewel automatic movement with hacking and a quickset date. Rolex used it in many models as well as the Datejust, including the Submariner, Date and Sea Dweller.

On initial assessment this watch was in well used condition. The case, bracelet and glass were showing plenty of scratches through years of year. Inspection of the movement showed the oils and greases crucial for the correct functioning of the watch were dried up. Our client requested a full service alongside the options of a new glass and case refinishing.

When we service a watch we completely disassemble the movement, with each part carefully inspected for wear. Once everything is stripped down the parts go through our specialist watch movement cleaning machine. After cleaning, the movement is carefully reassembled and oiled, plus we fit a new mainspring. Once everything is back together we adjust and test the movement, before the dial and hands are fitted.

While the movement is seperate from the case, we take the opportunity to do the refinishing and to replace the glass.

We strip down the case and bracelet before refinishing it to the best standard we can, while maintaining a critical eye and not compromising or making worse any wear to the shape of the case. We use a number of different polishing mops and wheels during this process. After the refinishing is complete and the case is clean, we fit the replacement glass. All that’s left is to reassemble the complete watch and it’s ready for testing.

For watches like this we recommend servicing every 3-5 years. This is to ensure optimal performance and to allow the movement to be checked for signs of wear and tear.

Do you have a Rolex Datejust watch in need of repair? Get in contact with us to see how we can help. We are able to repair almost any Rolex watch and we offer a comprehensive watch repair service. We cater to clients all around the UK thanks to our fully insured freepost watch repairs service. You can also bring watches in to our showrooms based in Lewes and Uckfield, Sussex. As Business Partners of the British Horological Institute and a Feefo Platinum Trusted Service Award accredited business, you can be confident when dealing with us.

Yours sincerely

David Clark DGA PJDip PJGemDip CertGA

Managing Director

W.E. Clark & Son Limited

Longines are one of the biggest names in watches, with a rich history extending back to their founding in 1832. These days Longines are a brand under the umbrella of the Swatch Group, sitting alongside other top names like Tissot and Omega.

Our client’s Longines is a fairly recent model – approximately ten years old – a Conquest automatic watch, with a 24 hour hand and date. It was reported to have a date change related problem, and as it had not been serviced, this was certainly required.

The movement powering this watch is an ETA calibre A07.171. This is part of the ETA Valgranges range – large movements derived from the excellent 7750 chronograph. This calibre has 24 jewels and a theoretical 46 hour power reserve. It beats at 28,800 beats per hour.

To service the watch, the movement is completely disassembled and pre-cleaned, with each part inspected. The disassembled movement is then run through our specialist watch movement cleaning machine, while the case and bracelet are cleaned in an ultrasonic cleaner. After cleaning the movement is carefully reassembled and oiled. The dial and hands are then refitted, before the complete movement is fitted into the case.

After the watch is correctly reassembled, it is pressure tested to ensure it remains water resistant. This model is rated to 300m water resistant and we are able to test to this depth using our Sigma watch pressure testing machine. This specialist machine uses air pressure and a special sensor to test for the deformation of the case when under pressure. If this falls outside of specific parameters, the watch fails. This watch passed to 300m.

Now this fantastic Longines Conquest watch can go on test – confirming its timekeeping and functions are working correctly before we return the watch to our client.

Do you have a Longines watch in need of repair? Get in contact with us to see how we can help. We are able to repair almost any Longines watch and we offer a comprehensive watch repair service. We cater to clients all around the UK thanks to our fully insured freepost watch repairs service. You can also bring watches in to our showrooms based in Lewes and Uckfield, Sussex. As Business Partners of the British Horological Institute and a Feefo Platinum Trusted Service Award accredited business, you can be confident when dealing with us.

Yours sincerely

David Clark DGA PJDip PJGemDip CertGA

Managing Director

W.E. Clark & Son Limited

In the world of watchmaking, you may instinctively think of the Swiss as being the nation of great watchmakers. While this may be broadly true today, this was not always the case. Britain has a rich history of all things horology, and indeed as a nation we are making a bit of a comeback in recent times.

In the very early years of British horology – between 1500-1700 – records were not kept particularly well. There were some in this period whose work was absolutely pioneering and critical to the development of horology. Take Robert Hooke for example – he initially studied pendulums before developing the balance spring. We still study Hooke’s law in horology today and his work was at least 5 years in advance of Christiaan Huygens – a Dutch scientist from the same period.

By the 1700s British watchmaking was well established. During this period the world was being explored by British explorers, though they faced a problem with navigation – notably determining longitude. This problem was considered so large that the British government established the Longitude Prize to reward anyone who could reliably solve this issue. Many tried from all sorts of fields of study, though only one would eventually succeed – the legendary John Harrison. In 1759 his Marine Chronometer known as H4 was developed and it’d go on to revolutionise travel by sea.

Working at a similar time as Harrison was Thomas Mudge. By 1755 he developed the Detached Lever Escapement. This form of watch escapement is used in the vast majority of mechanical watches even to this day. Further developments continued – to name just a few: John Arnold (1775) – Bimetallic balance and helical hairspring, Thomas Young (1807) – Chronograph, Thomas Priest (1820) – Keyless Winding. Then moving into the 20^th Century we have John Harwood (1923) developing the automatic watch.

The downfall of British Watchmaking came during the 20^th Century. While other countries developed more efficient means of producing watches, British horology remained resolutely fixed in traditional methods. While watches built abroad were initially of a much lower quality, the gap soon closed and the traditional British horologists could no longer compete.

Despite the 20^th century proving a hugely challenging time for British horology, there are still examples of British excellence in the field. The most notable being George Daniels.

George Daniels is in the eyes of many the greatest horologist of the 20^th Century. He rose from humble beginnings and initially studied horology in the evenings, before eventually building watches of his own design. Daniels built all of his watches completely by hand – every part – from the smallest screw to the case, dial and hands.

During the course of his work, Daniels pushed the boundaries of what is achievable from a mechanical watch by creating the Co-axial escapement. This escapement is far more accurate than the Lever Escapement. It was initially met with scepticism from the big Swiss watch houses. They weren’t convinced it could fit into one of their movements (so Daniels went back to his workshop and modified one of their watches to use his escapement), and after more back and forth Omega eventually adapted it for use in some of their watches. Daniels work is continued to this day by his Protégé, Roger Smith.

As well as horologists like Roger Smith who are creating truly wonderful watches and furthering the development of the craft, we have a raft of exciting British watch brands on the market – Bremont and Garrick to name just a couple. From our perspective, Our role as trusted watch repair specialists is to work at the other side of the industry so to speak – providing quality repairs to the people of Britain. With quality manufacturers and repairers, British horology is well placed to continue and thrive for many years to come, building upon the rich history of watchmaking in this country.

Promoting this very area – watchmaking as a whole – is the British Horological Institute. We are proud to be Business Partners of the British Horological Institute. We’ve partnered with the BHI because we strongly believe in their role overseeing watchmaking and maintaining standards across the UK and beyond. Our watchmakers have been trained with the BHI and taken accredited exams to prove their knowledge in the areas of horology necessary to carry out high standards of repairs.

Yours sincerely

David Clark DGA PJDip PJGemDip CertGA

Managing Director

W.E. Clark & Son Limited