Category: Watch Case Studies

We are experienced in the repair of almost every type and brand of watch here at WE Clark Watch Repairs. Perhaps the most common job we see on a day-to-day basis is replacing the watch battery.

It’s important to have your watch battery replaced by someone who knows what they’re doing for a variety of reasons. A professional watchmaker will have received proper training to look after your watch. In particular, if you have a nice watch from a prestigious brand, it really is worth letting someone with the appropriate training look it for you.

For example, trained watchmakers will, as part of the battery replacement service: check the entire watch, use good quality batteries, use the correct type of battery (you’d be amazed how often the incorrect battery is fitted), use correct methods fit the battery (eg. You won’t end up with fingerprints all over the insides of your watch) and use correct tooling (which will prevent damage to the case back and movement). As trained watchmakers we are fully capable of looking after your treasured watch.

Alongside replacing the battery, we offer a pressure testing service for water resistant models. If you use your watch in water, it will need pressure testing to confirm it is sealed and suitable for use in water. A battery replacement and pressure testing is more involved than a standard battery replacement. In order for a watch to be sealed for use in water, all the seals must be in good condition and the case must be clean and not damaged in any way which could compromise its water resistance.

Once we are happy everything looks good to proceed with pressure testing, we put the watch in our top quality Sigma pressure testing machine. This machine is able to test the water resistance of watches up to a rating of 300m (30BAR). The test is conducted using air pressure, and the machine tests the deformation of the case. As this is a “dry” test, watches are able to be tested complete – i.e. with the movement inside the case.

We do also have the option to conduct a “wet” test. We most commonly use this machine to pinpoint where a seal is failing on a watch. A watch case without the movement is attached inside the machine and we then increase the air pressure. If there’s a failing seal, this means the inside of the case will be pressurised. The case is then immersed in water and the pressure is slowly released. A steady stream of bubbles will be visible at the location of the damaged seal.

Suffice to say, we offer a comprehensive watch battery replacement service. To take advantage of our expert watchmakers, quality tooling and state-of-the-art equipment, do get in touch. We are able to repair almost any watch and we offer a comprehensive watch repair service. We cater to clients all around the UK thanks to our fully insured freepost watch repairs service. As Business Partners of the British Horological Institute and a Feefo Platinum Trusted Service Award accredited business, you can be confident when dealing with us.

Yours sincerely

David Clark DGA PJDip PJGemDip CertGA

Managing Director

W.E. Clark & Son Limited

We often see Rolex watches in our workshop. Rolex as a brand need no introduction – the brand is synonymous with high-quality, luxury timepieces. These watches are well worth maintaining and often become heirlooms passed down between generations. In this instance we have a vintage model – a Rolex Oyster Precision for repair.

On initial assessment this watch was barely ticking. Inspection of the calibre 1210 manual wind movement showed the oils and greases crucial for the correct functioning of the watch were completely dried up. This watch clearly hadn’t been serviced in many years, so we needed to change that!

A full service involves complete disassembly of the movement, with each part carefully inspected for wear. Once everything is stripped down, we run the parts through our specialist watch movement cleaning machine. The cleaning machine uses a series of jars containing specialised cleaning or rinsing fluids to give everything a thorough clean. We combine the use of the cleaning machine with a form of manual cleaning during the disassembly process – this way be can be certain we’ll have spotlessly clean parts when we get to the reassembly stage.

After cleaning, the movement is carefully reassembled and oiled, plus we fitted a new mainspring as the old one was out of shape. A mainspring in excellent condition is crucial to ensure a properly functioning watch – the mainspring is the source of power for the movement after all. Once everything is back together we adjust and test the movement, before the dial and hands are fitted.

The watch case is given a light polish and thoroughly cleaned and dried, before the watch is fully reassembled. Now the complete watch can be tested.

For watches like this we recommend servicing every 3-5 years. This is to ensure optimal performance of the movement (as the oils and greases needed to keep the movement running properly need to be kept fresh) and to allow the movement to be checked for signs of wear and tear.

After a full service and new mainspring plus a clean and polish of the case, this beautiful Rolex is running very nicely once again.

Yours sincerely

David Clark DGA PJDip PJGemDip CertGA

Managing Director

W.E. Clark & Son Limited

Rolex make exceptional quality, luxury timepieces. Their watches stand the test of time, given due care and attention, with vintage Rolex watches often becoming family heirlooms passed down between generations.

This watch is a vintage Rolex Datejust, using the Rolex calibre 3035 movement. This movement was introduced in 1977 and Rolex used it for just over ten years before it was succeeded by the calibre 3135. The calibre 3035 is a 27 jewel automatic movement with hacking and a quickset date. Rolex used it in many models as well as the Datejust, including the Submariner, Date and Sea Dweller.

On initial assessment this watch was in well used condition. The case, bracelet and glass were showing plenty of scratches through years of year. Inspection of the movement showed the oils and greases crucial for the correct functioning of the watch were dried up. Our client requested a full service alongside the options of a new glass and case refinishing.

When we service a watch we completely disassemble the movement, with each part carefully inspected for wear. Once everything is stripped down the parts go through our specialist watch movement cleaning machine. After cleaning, the movement is carefully reassembled and oiled, plus we fit a new mainspring. Once everything is back together we adjust and test the movement, before the dial and hands are fitted.

While the movement is seperate from the case, we take the opportunity to do the refinishing and to replace the glass.

We strip down the case and bracelet before refinishing it to the best standard we can, while maintaining a critical eye and not compromising or making worse any wear to the shape of the case. We use a number of different polishing mops and wheels during this process. After the refinishing is complete and the case is clean, we fit the replacement glass. All that’s left is to reassemble the complete watch and it’s ready for testing.

For watches like this we recommend servicing every 3-5 years. This is to ensure optimal performance and to allow the movement to be checked for signs of wear and tear.

Do you have a Rolex Datejust watch in need of repair? Get in contact with us to see how we can help. We are able to repair almost any Rolex watch and we offer a comprehensive watch repair service. We cater to clients all around the UK thanks to our fully insured freepost watch repairs service. You can also bring watches in to our showrooms based in Lewes and Uckfield, Sussex. As Business Partners of the British Horological Institute and a Feefo Platinum Trusted Service Award accredited business, you can be confident when dealing with us.

Yours sincerely

David Clark DGA PJDip PJGemDip CertGA

Managing Director

W.E. Clark & Son Limited

Longines are one of the biggest names in watches, with a rich history extending back to their founding in 1832. These days Longines are a brand under the umbrella of the Swatch Group, sitting alongside other top names like Tissot and Omega.

Our client’s Longines is a fairly recent model – approximately ten years old – a Conquest automatic watch, with a 24 hour hand and date. It was reported to have a date change related problem, and as it had not been serviced, this was certainly required.

The movement powering this watch is an ETA calibre A07.171. This is part of the ETA Valgranges range – large movements derived from the excellent 7750 chronograph. This calibre has 24 jewels and a theoretical 46 hour power reserve. It beats at 28,800 beats per hour.

To service the watch, the movement is completely disassembled and pre-cleaned, with each part inspected. The disassembled movement is then run through our specialist watch movement cleaning machine, while the case and bracelet are cleaned in an ultrasonic cleaner. After cleaning the movement is carefully reassembled and oiled. The dial and hands are then refitted, before the complete movement is fitted into the case.

After the watch is correctly reassembled, it is pressure tested to ensure it remains water resistant. This model is rated to 300m water resistant and we are able to test to this depth using our Sigma watch pressure testing machine. This specialist machine uses air pressure and a special sensor to test for the deformation of the case when under pressure. If this falls outside of specific parameters, the watch fails. This watch passed to 300m.

Now this fantastic Longines Conquest watch can go on test – confirming its timekeeping and functions are working correctly before we return the watch to our client.

Do you have a Longines watch in need of repair? Get in contact with us to see how we can help. We are able to repair almost any Longines watch and we offer a comprehensive watch repair service. We cater to clients all around the UK thanks to our fully insured freepost watch repairs service. You can also bring watches in to our showrooms based in Lewes and Uckfield, Sussex. As Business Partners of the British Horological Institute and a Feefo Platinum Trusted Service Award accredited business, you can be confident when dealing with us.

Yours sincerely

David Clark DGA PJDip PJGemDip CertGA

Managing Director

W.E. Clark & Son Limited

In the world of watchmaking, you may instinctively think of the Swiss as being the nation of great watchmakers. While this may be broadly true today, this was not always the case. Britain has a rich history of all things horology, and indeed as a nation we are making a bit of a comeback in recent times.

In the very early years of British horology – between 1500-1700 – records were not kept particularly well. There were some in this period whose work was absolutely pioneering and critical to the development of horology. Take Robert Hooke for example – he initially studied pendulums before developing the balance spring. We still study Hooke’s law in horology today and his work was at least 5 years in advance of Christiaan Huygens – a Dutch scientist from the same period.

By the 1700s British watchmaking was well established. During this period the world was being explored by British explorers, though they faced a problem with navigation – notably determining longitude. This problem was considered so large that the British government established the Longitude Prize to reward anyone who could reliably solve this issue. Many tried from all sorts of fields of study, though only one would eventually succeed – the legendary John Harrison. In 1759 his Marine Chronometer known as H4 was developed and it’d go on to revolutionise travel by sea.

Working at a similar time as Harrison was Thomas Mudge. By 1755 he developed the Detached Lever Escapement. This form of watch escapement is used in the vast majority of mechanical watches even to this day. Further developments continued – to name just a few: John Arnold (1775) – Bimetallic balance and helical hairspring, Thomas Young (1807) – Chronograph, Thomas Priest (1820) – Keyless Winding. Then moving into the 20^th Century we have John Harwood (1923) developing the automatic watch.

The downfall of British Watchmaking came during the 20^th Century. While other countries developed more efficient means of producing watches, British horology remained resolutely fixed in traditional methods. While watches built abroad were initially of a much lower quality, the gap soon closed and the traditional British horologists could no longer compete.

Despite the 20^th century proving a hugely challenging time for British horology, there are still examples of British excellence in the field. The most notable being George Daniels.

George Daniels is in the eyes of many the greatest horologist of the 20^th Century. He rose from humble beginnings and initially studied horology in the evenings, before eventually building watches of his own design. Daniels built all of his watches completely by hand – every part – from the smallest screw to the case, dial and hands.

During the course of his work, Daniels pushed the boundaries of what is achievable from a mechanical watch by creating the Co-axial escapement. This escapement is far more accurate than the Lever Escapement. It was initially met with scepticism from the big Swiss watch houses. They weren’t convinced it could fit into one of their movements (so Daniels went back to his workshop and modified one of their watches to use his escapement), and after more back and forth Omega eventually adapted it for use in some of their watches. Daniels work is continued to this day by his Protégé, Roger Smith.

As well as horologists like Roger Smith who are creating truly wonderful watches and furthering the development of the craft, we have a raft of exciting British watch brands on the market – Bremont and Garrick to name just a couple. From our perspective, Our role as trusted watch repair specialists is to work at the other side of the industry so to speak – providing quality repairs to the people of Britain. With quality manufacturers and repairers, British horology is well placed to continue and thrive for many years to come, building upon the rich history of watchmaking in this country.

Promoting this very area – watchmaking as a whole – is the British Horological Institute. We are proud to be Business Partners of the British Horological Institute. We’ve partnered with the BHI because we strongly believe in their role overseeing watchmaking and maintaining standards across the UK and beyond. Our watchmakers have been trained with the BHI and taken accredited exams to prove their knowledge in the areas of horology necessary to carry out high standards of repairs.

Yours sincerely

David Clark DGA PJDip PJGemDip CertGA

Managing Director

W.E. Clark & Son Limited

When we service a watch movement we use a range of different specialist oils and greases. Lubrication is needed on moving parts to reduce friction which may lead to them wearing out. The more extra functions (or complications) your watch has, the more points in the movement which will require some form of oil or grease. As each movement is different, the type and quantity of oil or grease can vary.

Some modern movements are very sensitive to a lack of lubrication. After a period of 4-5 years a watch will need to be serviced, whereby the movement is completely disassembled, cleaned, reassembled, oiled, adjusted and tested. Certain movements are more hardy and may continue working despite lubricants being past their best. Notable “bulletproof” movements include some vintage Omega calibres. It should be stressed it’s a risky game to play by running a watch beyond its recommended service interval, especially if it’s a vintage model. If parts wear out, they may be rare or need to be made. This would significantly increase the cost of the repair. We strongly advocate looking after your watch and sticking to regular service intervals!

Each watchmaker will have their own personal preferences in regards to the oils and greases they use. Influences can include the age of the watchmaker and where they trained. For modern calibres a watchmaker’s servicing technical sheet will provide details of the manufacturer approved lubricants to use. In the absence of a technical sheet, there are some broad guidelines for lubricant use.

For metal to metal we use grease. There are various different types on the market and the exact type we use depends on the situation. A basic “general purpose” grease is Moebius 8200. When servicing a 7750 chronograph, we use a grease called Molykote DX on the chronograph work.

For low speed high torque applications we use a thicker oil. Our preference here is Moebius HP-1300 – this is often specified on the technical documents of many modern watch calibres. The more “old school” watchmakers may use D5 for this application.

When oiling anything high speed low torque, we use a thinner oil. The industry standard here is Moebius 9010. Examples of where we use this oil include the pivots of the escape wheel and when oiling the end stones of the balance.

On top of these “basic” lubricants there are many others for very specific areas of the watch movement. Specialist lubricants include P125 – a braking grease used on the barrel walls of automatic watches. This lubricant is specified by many big manufacturers. Others include Moebius 941 and 9415 which are only used to oil the teeth of the escape wheel. V105 is used on reversing wheels, and V106 for rotor bearings, Then there’s epilame – a surface treatment used to prevent oils from spreading.

As you can tell, oils and the correct oiling of a watch really is a broad topic! Rest assured when your watch is in our care we adhere to the manufacturers technical documentation where appropriate and otherwise use industry standard best practices, as taught in leading horological institutions such as the British Horological Institute.

Yours sincerely

David Clark PJDip PJGemDip CertGA
Managing Director