Information and Advice Archives - W.E. Clark & Son Limited

How long can a watch last without servicing?

Posted on August 15, 2024 by Stephen Irvine

Watches can last for varying amounts of time before being serviced, depending on various factors including the type of watch, how often it is used and under what circumstances. Generally speaking a mechanical watch should be serviced every 3-5 years. This is because the oils and greases which allow a watch movement to work properly need to be replaced. If these are left for any longer, they may begin to degrade, leading to increased wear in the movement and potentially affecting timekeeping. While a watch may keep going for many years beyond its recommended service interval, parts will be wearing out and this will lead to a much higher repair bill in the long term when it eventually does stop.

It may be a watch will last for well over a decade working and keeping time without a service. This may lead to the incorrect conclusion that there are no issues with the movement. Watch movements are complex mechanisms relying on various wheels, springs and other components. These parts are often extremely small and are prone to wearing out when oils and greases are not fresh. A watch movement also has numerous parts which are nothing to do with the timekeeping – these may relate to the winding, hand setting, automatic winding, chronograph, date change or any number of other areas.

If a watch continues to work and keep time despite having not been serviced in many years, this is more a testament to the genius of the design of a watch movement then a sign your watch is ok. When we work on watches which have not been properly maintained, they often need numerous replacement parts. This means the cost of repair is considerably higher than if the watch had been correctly maintained.

It’s even more important to stay on top of maintenance if you have a vintage watch. Parts for certain vintage models are increasingly hard to obtain and are becoming increasingly expensive. Some parts may even not be available at all, which means we need to make parts to repair these watches. One way to avoid all this unnecessary additional expense is to simply adhere to 3-5 year service intervals.

Quartz watches are a little different to their mechanical counterparts. Quartz watches have less moving parts and use much finer oils in lower quantities. This means service intervals are longer. As quartz watches rely on batteries, our advise is to take your watch to a watchmaker like us for the battery replacement. While replacing the battery we can test the movement to confirm it is operating within the manufacturers tolerances, and if not then we can go down the servicing route. If pushed to give an approximate timescale for a quartz service interval, we suggest 5-7 years, though it really does vary based on the quartz movement.

The conditions a watch is used in may also impact service intervals. Watches which are frequently exposed to extremes of heat, dusty or humid environments will undoubtedly need attention from a watchmaker on a more regular basis. If you use your watch in water it is important to have the seals checked frequently – we suggest every 12 months.

Our advice is to have your mechanical watch serviced every 3-5 years, and to have your quartz watch checked when it needs a replacement battery, but with 5-7 years as a rough guideline. Leaving service intervals for much longer than the suggested period causes increased wear throughout the mechanism, which will only cause a higher repair bill in the long-term, as more parts will need to be replaced.

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What traits and characteristics makes a good watchmaker?

Posted on March 8, 2024 by David Clark

When people discover our chosen profession, it is often followed with comments like “You must have very good eyesight” or “you must have the patience of a saint”. In this blog post we hope to outline some of the traits and characteristics we feel makes a good candidate for becoming a watchmaker.

Firstly, having good finger dexterity is important. As watchmakers we are manipulating small components, using hand tools and specialist equipment. The ability to do this with precision and excellent hand-eye coordination is very much required. It is possible to learn and improve this skill, but some natural dexterity is a must.

The other half of hand-eye coordination – good eyesight – is likewise needed. You don’t need 20/20 vision, but we work using Loupes and Microscopes, so it’s a must to be able to focus clearly on small parts for prolonged periods of time.

Indeed, the nature of our business means we are working on the same job sometimes for hours at a time. Having patience and the ability to concentrate for long spells is vitally important. Anyone without a calm, patient attitude is at a huge disadvantage in the world of watchmaking. Getting frustrated with a job will often only result in problems getting worse.

Showing excellent patience may also mean you’re a perfectionist – another asset in the world of watchmaking. We’re dealing with tiny, intricate mechanisms where small imperfections can make a huge difference to the correct functioning of a watch.

Fixing watches is about identifying and solving problems, so having strength in this area is another plus. Watches are complicated mechanisms, so linked to this is the ability to understand how they work and to then be able to translate this understanding to the watch you’re working on. This means you need good understanding and ability to comprehend often quite technical information.

The above are our main “base” characteristics for who we consider to be an excellent candidate to be a watchmaker. It is possible to learn and enhance some of these traits. Indeed, much of watchmaking is an unending educational journey where skills are constantly honed and knowledge gained. Educational institutions exist to teach watchmakers, though the number of locations is somewhat limited. We support the British Horological Institute as Business Partners and we are in full support of their role leading the education of Watchmakers here in the UK.

Yours sincerely

David Clark FGA DGA MJVA PJDip. PJGemDip.

Managing Director, JVA Registered Valuer®

W.E. Clark & Son Limited

How does a mechanical watch work?

Posted on June 6, 2023 by David Clark

A mechanical watch is a timepiece that uses mechanical components to track and display the time. Mechanical watches have been in use for centuries and are still preferred by many watch enthusiasts for their timeless appeal and intricate design. In this blog post we’ll explore in basic terms how a mechanical watch actually works.

Mechanical watches use a combination of gears, springs, and other mechanical components to track the passage of time. The watch is powered by a mainspring, which is wound by the user or, in the case of an automatic mechanical watch, by the motion of the wearer’s wrist. As the mainspring unwinds, it releases energy that is transmitted through a series of gears, eventually reaching the escapement.

The escapement is the part of the watch that controls the release of power through the gears. It works in combination with an oscillator – the balance wheel. The balance wheel is a weighted wheel that oscillates back and forth at a constant rate, typically between 2.5 and 5 Hertz. As it oscillates, it moves the pallet fork back and forth. This motion allows power to be gradually released from the gear train due to the engagement of the pallet fork with the escape wheel.

The gear train is another critical part of the watch and is responsible for transmitting the energy from the mainspring to the escapement. It consists of a series of gears that are arranged in a specific ratio to regulate the movement of the watch hands. The gear train in traditional movements includes a centre wheel, which is connected to the mainspring barrel, as well as a third wheel and fourth wheel which transmit power from the centre wheel to the escapement.

The motion of the hands is controlled by the movement of the gear train. The hour hand is mounted on a separate shaft from the minute hand, which allows the hour hand to move independently. The gear ratio is designed so that the hour hand moves at a slower rate than the minute hand, allowing the hour hand to track the passage of hours while the minute hand tracks the passage of minutes.

Accuracy of a watch can be affected by many factors, including changes in temperature, position, and wear and tear on the components. To ensure your watch is performing as effectively as it can, it should be serviced periodically by a trained watchmaker. We are able to assist in the servicing and repair of most makes and models of watch – do get in touch and see how we can help. Most watches have a 3-5 year service interval, depending on their age and quality.

In addition to the basic components described above, many mechanical watches include additional features such as a date display, chronograph function, or moon phase indicator. These features typically involve additional gears and mechanisms being added to the watch movement. For example, a chronograph function might include a separate set of gears, springs and levers for the chronograph mechanism, drastically increasing the number of parts which make up the movement. This is why working on these models is often more complicated and time consuming than when dealing with a “basic” mechanical watch.

Do you have a mechanical watch in need of attention? If so, get in touch and see how we can help. We offer a fully insured freepost watch repairs service and we serve clients all around the UK, as well as to customers local to us in Lewes and Uckfield, Sussex. As holders of a Feefo Platinum Trusted Service Award and business partners of the British Horological Institute you can be confident in the service we provide.

Yours sincerely

David Clark FGA DGA MJVA PJDip. PJGemDip.

Managing Director, JVA Registered Valuer®

W.E. Clark & Son Limited

Watch Testing and Diagnostic Equipment

Posted on April 6, 2023 by David Clark

We are experienced in the repair of almost every type and brand of watch here at WE Clark Watch Repairs. In order to repair watches to a high standard, we continually invest in the best quality tools and equipment for our workshop. While you may find budget versions of some testing machines, the calibration and quality of the equipment is – speaking from experience – not the same. In order to appropriately test a high end watch, it requires high end, specialist equipment.

One piece of equipment we use multiple times a day is a Timegrapher. This is a machine which listens to the sound of a mechanical watch escapement (the ticking sound you can hear) and is able to display this sound as a graph. From this graph we are able to ascertain a number of factors, all of which contribute to diagnosing faults and adjusting the watch. It is possible to use budget Timegraphers, such as those made in the far east. While these machines are reasonable for the price, they are not calibrated to the same level and built to the same quality of their Swiss counterparts. Our machine is made by Witschi – a Swiss watchmaking equipment manufacturer – and it’s their Watch Expert IV model. It’s a pleasure to use and comes with a certificate of calibration so we can be confident in the accuracy of machine. With this machine we can accurately test and diagnose faults on a huge range of different mechanical watches.

If we are dealing with a quartz watch we need to use a different piece of equipment. In order to test a quartz watch, we need to conduct a variety of electrical tests. These tests include assessing the power consumption of the watch, the coil resistance, the lower working voltage, the battery voltage under load and the accuracy of the movement. To do this we use an industry favourite – the Elma Watch-Master. This machine is actually produced by Witschi too, under the name Tech-Handy. Testing is done using probes with are positioned on the movement in different locations based on the test being conducted. As with the Timegrapher, it is possible to get more budget quartz testing equipment, but these are often unable to conduct the full range of tests required after servicing.

After a service is completed on a mechanical or quartz watch, it may be appropriate to pressure test a watch for water resistance. To do this we use our state-of-the-art Sigma pressure testing machine. This machine is able to test the water resistance of watches up to a rating of 300m (30BAR). The test is conducted using air pressure, and the machine tests the deformation of the case. As this is a “dry” test, watches are able to be tested complete – i.e. with the movement inside the case. Having the capability to test up to 300m means we can test watches suitable for extensive use in water. Models rated to 300m include some iterations of Omega Seamaster – so we can test these to their original rating.

We do also have the option to conduct a “wet” test. We most commonly use this machine to pinpoint where a seal is failing on a watch. A watch case without the movement is attached inside the machine and we then increase the air pressure. If there’s a failing seal, this means the inside of the case will be pressurised. The case is then immersed in water and the pressure is slowly released. A steady stream of bubbles will be visible at the location of the damaged seal.

Suffice to say, we offer a comprehensive repairs service utilising top quality watch diagnostic and testing equipment. To take advantage of our expert watchmakers and state-of-the-art equipment, do get in touch. We are able to repair almost any watch and we offer a comprehensive watch repair service. We cater to clients all around the UK thanks to our fully insured freepost watch repairs service. As Business Partners of the British Horological Institute and a Feefo Platinum Trusted Service Award accredited business, you can be confident when dealing with us.

Yours sincerely

David Clark DGA PJDip PJGemDip CertGA

Managing Director

W.E. Clark & Son Limited

Water Damaged Watches

Posted on November 25, 2022 by David Clark

Water damaged watches are all too common, and we see them quite regularly in our workshop. Depending on the type of watch and the severity of the damage, water ingress can lead to a hefty repair bill. But why does water damage happen in the first place? And what should you do if the worst does happen? We’ll attempt to briefly answer the first of these questions in this two part blog post..

Watches labelled as water resistant are just that – water resistant, rather than waterproof (and if they’re labelled “waterproof” this is often erroneous). Each watch has a different level of water resistance, ranging from not at all and splashproof through to 50m, 100m, 200m and even more. These ratings mean your watch can handle being exposed to this level of use in water. There is often some confusion caused by the labelling of these ratings, as it is not as clear cut as 50m = it can be used in water to depths of 50m. Here’s our guide to the common ratings:

No labelling on case or dial: Not resistant to splashing or contact with moisture of any kind.
Water-resistant: 30M / 100Ft / 3ATM / 3Bar: Will resist moisture from accidental splashing, rain, sweat etc. Not suitable for immersion.
Water-resistant 50M / 160Ft / 5ATM / 5Bar: Will resist moisture from accidental splashing, rain, and showering or swimming.
Water-resistant 100M / 300Ft / 10ATM / 10Bar: Watch may be worn during swimming, snorkelling and skin diving, if properly sealed.
Water-resistant: 200M / 660Ft / 20ATM / 20Bar: Watch may be worn during standard scuba diving.
Water-resistant: 300M / 1000Ft / 30ATM / 30Bar: Watch may be worn during scuba diving and saturation diving.

It may be your watch has been exposed to water at above and beyond it’s rating, causing one of the seals to fail. Seals may also fail for other reasons – they’re often made of rubber, which is perishable. Rubber seals need replacing every so often. They also need to be kept clean and seated properly. If you have your watch regularly serviced the seals can be assessed and changed as required – another reason not to skip on that maintenance service just because your watch appears to be running well at the moment.

Water damage may also occur due to human error. If your watch has a screw-down crown, this needs to be screwed down for the watch to be sealed and thus water resistant. If you have a chronograph watch, pushers should not be pressed when the watch is immersed in water as this may again compromise the seal. Damage to the glass can allow water to leak into the case through the front. All of these are examples of user error and would not be covered under any sort of a guarantee.

In part two of this blog post we’ll discuss what to do if the worst does happen, as well as look at what not to do! Look out for part two coming soon.

Yours sincerely

David Clark DGA PJDip PJGemDip CertGA

Managing Director

W.E. Clark & Son Limited

Types of Pivot

Posted on November 26, 2021 by David Clark

In watchmaking we use a number of different types of pivot, depending on the situation. The pivots are the end part of a wheel’s arbor – so the part which holds it in place in the bearing as it rotates. In this blog post we’ll briefly look at the different types of pivot commonly found in watch movements, as well as their strengths and weaknesses.

The straight or square pivot is the most commonly found in the train – so the wheels used to convey power from the mainspring through to the escapement. These pivots have – as the name suggests – straight sides, with a squared off shoulder. Straight pivots provide good strength though the friction across both horizontal and vertical positions is fairly high, due to the larger surface area in contact with the jewelled bearing.

Watch pivot diagrams

Watch pivot diagrams

A Conical pivot is commonly found on a watch balance. These pivots are paired with an olive shaped jewel and a cap jewel. The conical pivot is indeed somewhat conical in shape and it has a domed end. Due to the shape of these pivots and the respective jewels they act in, friction is reduced to an absolute minimum across both vertical and horizontal positions. The trade-off is that the pivots are weaker, hence they are found operating in shock-resistant settings, such as Incabloc and Kif.

You can also find Cone shaped pivots. These tend to be found in lower grade pocket watches (and indeed small clocks). They are used instead of conical pivots as they are easier to make. The pivots turn in cups which are made into the end of a screw. Over a number of years this type of pivot wears out – and as it does so, the area of contact at the end of the pivot increases, which increases friction and causes even more wear. The timepiece will eventually stop in certain positions as a result.

Problems with pivots can occur in a variety of different ways – the watchmaker must always be aware of possible issues with pivots which need addressing. A pivot may become “necked” for example – this is where a section of the pivot is worn into a smaller diameter than the rest of the pivot. Reducing the diameter by only a small amount causes a significant reduction in strength.

Other issues found may include short pivots. bent pivots and, of course, worn pivots. In modern watches if we find a pivot problem, the correct repair is to replace the defective part. With older watches where parts are no longer available, we may need to burnish the existing pivot to resurface and toughen it, so it can be used once more.

Do you have a watch in need of repair? If so, get in touch and see how we can help. We are watch repair specialists with a fully insured freepost watch repairs service. We offer repairs to clients all around the UK and we are experts in the repair of modern and vintage watches. As holders of a Feefo Platinum Trusted Service Award and business partners of the British Horological Institute you can be confident in the service we provide.

Please Contact Us for further information regarding any requirement you may have.

Yours sincerely

David Clark DGA PJDip PJGemDip CertGA
Managing Director
W.E. Clark & Son Limited

How a quartz watch works

Posted on November 26, 2021 by David Clark

Quartz watches – watches usually powered by batteries – are very popular and we regularly see a huge variety of quartz models in our workshop. But how does a quartz watch actually work? In this blog post we’ll do our best to describe just how a quartz watch is able to transfer power from a battery through to the hands to indicate the time.

A battery (or strictly speaking, a cell), supplies the electricity needed to power a quartz watch. Electrical energy is produced by a chemical reaction between the two battery terminals and an electrolyte.

In order for a watch to work and accurately tell the time, it needs to use a ‘resonant oscillator’ – that is an oscillator which has a natural frequency of vibration. In mechanical watches or clocks this could be a pendulum (a weight acting against gravity), or a balance (a weight acting against a spring). Quartz watches use – as the name would suggest – a tiny piece of quartz. This piece of quartz is shaped like a tuning fork and when this is made to vibrate, it maintains a constant frequency.

Quartz watch movement Quartz watch movement

Thanks to the piezo-electric effect, applying a voltage to the quartz crystal will set it vibrating. This vibrating quartz crystal acts as the balance would in a mechanical watch and is responsible for the incredible accuracy of quartz watches. Indeed, a standard mechanical watch balance may vibrate at 2.5Hz, whereas a quartz crystal vibrates at a staggering 32,768Hz! This accounts, at least somewhat, for the incredible accuracy of the quartz watch.

In order for a quartz watch with a second hand to tell the time, we need an electrical pulse once per second. The watch integrated circuit is responsible for dividing down this figure to achieve the required single pulse per second.

This regular pulse per second is now used to drive a motor. The motor consists of a rotor, a stator and a coil. The motor is a permanent magnet and it is made to rotate through 180 degrees for each pulse received. Thanks to some clever design, this rotor will always turn in the same direction. That means if we attach a pinion to the top of the rotor we are able to drive a series of wheels from it.

From the rotor, the intermediate wheel is driven, the pinion of the intermediate wheel drives the second wheel (and on the pinion of this the second hand is attached). The second wheel pinion drives the third wheel. The third wheel arbor extends through to the dial side of the watch movement, and this is responsible for turning the driving wheel. The driving wheel leads to the rotation of the minute and hour hands.

As you can see from the brief description above, there’s actually quite a lot to a quartz watch. Do you have a quartz watch in need of repair? We are able to repair and restore almost any model and type of watch, including quartz. With our fully insured freepost watch repairs service we offer repairs to clients all around the UK. As holders of a Feefo Platinum Trusted Service Award and business partners of the British Horological Institute you can be confident in the service we provide.

Please Contact Us for further information regarding any requirement you may have.

Yours sincerely

David Clark DGA PJDip PJGemDip CertGA
Managing Director
W.E. Clark & Son Limited

Watch pressure testing

Posted on November 26, 2021 by David Clark

In order to check water resistance of a watch we use pressure testing equipment. In our workshop we use two different types – a “dry” tester and a “wet” tester. In this blog post we’ll discuss using the wet pressure tester and how this is used to help us check a watch case for any leaks.

As the name would suggest the “wet” tester involves immersing the watch in water. The steps involved in testing a watch are broadly outlined below.

‘Wet’ testing in progress ‘Wet’ testing in progress

Firstly, it should be said we test the watch case without the movement. While in theory this precaution is not necessary (it will become clear why), we prefer to absolutely err on the side of caution. As such, the movement is removed from the case. We then re-assemble the case, so it is complete with crown and case back.

Now we have a case ready to put in the pressure tester, The case is loaded into the machine and suspended from a hook. We now need to seal the machine – tightening the retaining bolts and making sure the pressure release valve is closed.

Next, it’s time to pressurise the chamber. Our testing machine uses a manual pump, so we repeatedly pull the lever and pressurise the chamber until it reaches the level of pressure, we’re testing this specific watch to.

Once the chamber is pressurised it’s important to wait for a while. This allows the pressure in the chamber and inside the watch to equalise if there’s a leak. The case is then carefully lowered into the water. Once in the water we slowly release the pressure release value.

If there’s a leak in the case, the case will have pressurised to the same level as the air. This means as the pressure in the chamber begins to be lowered, a stream of bubbles begins to appear from the source of the leak. Here you can see why in theory a watch could be tested complete – if the pressure is higher inside the watch, air will be pushed out rather than water allowed in. If there is no leak, we do not see any streams of bubbles as the pressure inside the case remains at the level it was before going into the tester – 1 atmosphere.

Once confident in the result, the watch is lifted from the water before all the pressure in the chamber is released. When the pressure is fully released the watch case can be retrieved from the machine and dried off.

As you can see, use of this machine is very important. It helps with diagnosing the location of faulty seals, and also means we are able to say the case has been tested as properly water resistant, as opposed to if we solely used the air tester. Once the case is dry the movement is reinstalled and we then finish the job off by using our “dry” testing machine on the complete watch.

Do you have a watch in need of repair? Contact us and see how we can help. We are experts in the repair of watches both modern and vintage. We offer a fully insured freepost repairs service and as business partners of the British Horological Institute, as well as holders of a Feefo Platinum Service Award, you can be confident when dealing with us.

Please Contact Us for further information regarding any requirement you may have.

Yours sincerely

David Clark DGA PJDip PJGemDip CertGA
Managing Director
W.E. Clark & Son Limited

Swiss Lever Escapement

Posted on September 19, 2021 by David Clark

In a mechanical watch or clock, the escapement is the mechanical linkage which allows the gear train to be periodically released. Controlling this release means we are able to adjust how watches or clocks keep time. There are numerous different types of escapement, though the most common one found in mechanical watches is the Swiss lever escapement.

Swiss Lever Escapement

The Swiss lever escapement operates by using pallets (small specially shaped jewels). These pallets control the release of power from the escape wheel; this is part of the train of wheels, transmitting power through the watch movement, from the mainspring in it’s barrel. During this process the escape wheel tooth gives an impulse to the pallet. This impulse is used to continue powering the escapement, via transfer to the balance.

During the interaction of the escape wheel tooth with the pallets: They are locked, unlocked, provide impulse, released. The escape wheel then moves, and then another tooth is locked on the opposite pallet.

The Swiss lever escapement even has safety features. These protect the running of the escapement in case of an impact which would otherwise cause overbanking. Overbanking is an effect when the correct sequence of the escapement gets messed up; The movement will completely stop if this happens, so it’s important to prevent it.

Does this sound confusing?

Watch escapements can be a difficult subject to break down, as there’s a lot of horology specific terminology, and it’s much more complex than outlined above. You could write an entire book on the subject, suffice to say the escapement design is absolutely ingenious.

There are numerous other watch escapements too, such as cylinders, english lever, and verge. Each escapement has it’s own specific geometry and quirks, which must be understood in order to correctly set it up in a watch or clock.

You’d hardly believe there’s so much to the simple ticking sound, when you hold a mechanical watch to your ear.

Do you have a mechanical watch in need of repair?

Here at WE Clark Watch Repairs we are experts in the repair of all makes and models of watch – from vintage pocket watches through to modern big name brands like Tag Heuer, Omega and Rolex. We offer a fully insured freepost watch repairs service to clients all around the UK. As holders of a Feefo Platinum Trusted Service Award, and business partners of the British Horological Institute, you can be confident in the service we provide.

Please Contact Us for further information regarding any requirement you may have.

Yours sincerely

David Clark DGA PJDip PJGemDip CertGA

Managing Director

W.E. Clark & Son Limited

Common watch related questions blog post

Posted on June 28, 2021 by David Clark

As experts in the repair and restoration of watches both modern and vintage, we encounter a huge variety of watches in our workshop. Through the course of our work and dealings with clients, we are often asked similar questions again and again. In this blog post we’ll look at a few common questions and give you our answers. A quick note – each watch is different, so while our responses outlined below may be appropriate to your watch, there are of course exceptions.

Why does my automatic watch stop when I take it off?

My watch has kept time perfectly for 10/20/30 years and it’s never needed a service, why has it stopped?

In short, the lack of maintenance will have likely caused some serious wear. These mechanisms rely on cleanliness, plus fresh oils and greases to work properly. Going decades without a service is not advisable and will only serve to damage the movement. The fact its kept going for so many years is perhaps testament to the genius design of the watch movement. Service intervals are usually every 3-5 years for most watches.

I have a mechanical (hand-winding) watch and I can keep winding it forever – why is this?

If you have a hand-wound mechanical watch this is almost certainly a broken mainspring. A full service and new mainspring will be required.

Why is the second hand skipping on my quartz (battery) powered watch?

Some quartz movements have an end-of-life (EOL) indicator function. This allows the watch to display to you when the battery needs replacing. When you see the second hand skipping this is a sign it needs doing.

Do you have a watch in need of repair? Get in contact with us to see how we can help. We are able to repair almost any watch and we offer a comprehensive watch repair service. We cater to clients all around the UK thanks to our fully insured freepost watch repairs service. You can also bring watches in to our showrooms based in Lewes and Uckfield, Sussex. As Business Partners of the British Horological Institute and a Feefo Platinum Trusted Service Award accredited business, you can be confident when dealing with us.

Yours sincerely

David Clark PJDip. PJGemDip. CertGA.
Managing Director
W.E. Clark & Son Limited.