Category: Information and Advice

In order for a watch movement to work properly it requires periodic cleaning and lubrication. This is due to the design of the mechanism – lubrication is needed on moving parts to reduce the friction which may lead to them wearing out. Even quartz watches still rely on oils and greases to operate as they should. The more complications your watch has, the more points in the movement which will require some form of oil or grease.

Of course as each movement is different the types and quantities of oils and greases will change. There are some notable movements which require, at least in theory, less regular servicing, such as movements using the co-axial escapement. Nowadays we even have pioneering horologists like Dr Roger Smith involved in research into nanotechnology which may eventually eliminate the need for oils entirely.

There is a huge range of oils and greases available on the market. Each watchmaker will have their own personal preferences on this front and it’s very rare to get two watchmakers to agree. Factors such as the age of the watchmaker and where they trained may in turn influence their choice of oils. There are still a few broad categories we can split the lubricants into.

For metal to metal we use some form of grease. There are various different types on the market and the exact type we use depends on the situation. When servicing a 7750 chronograph for example, we use a grease called Molykote DX on the chronograph work.

For low speed high torque applications we use a thicker oil. Our preference here is Moebius HP-1300 – this is often specified on the technical documents of many modern watch calibres.

For high speed low torque applications we use a thinner oil. The industry standard here is Moebius 9010. Examples of where we use this oil include the pivots of the escape wheel and when oiling the end stones of the balance.

On top of these “basic” lubricants there are many others for very specific areas of the watch movement. Sometimes these can be incredibly expensive – a pot of only a few millilitres may cost upwards of £70 for some of these! Specialist lubricants include P125 which is a braking grease used on the barrel walls of automatic watches. This lubricant is specified by many big manufacturers. Others include Moebius 941 and 9415 which are only used to oil the teeth of the escape wheel.

There are many other forms of lubrication and treatments used when servicing a watch movement – V105 f

or reversing wheels, V106 for rotor bearings – the list really does go on. We haven’t even discussed epilame – a fantastic surface treatment which prevents oils from spreading. Suffice to say, oils and greases in watchmaking is a huge topic. We follow manufacturers technical documentation where we can and for vintage pieces we adhere to industry standard best practices.

Do you have a watch in need of servicing? If so, do get in contact to see how we can help. We are able to repair almost any watch and we offer a comprehensive watch repair service. We cater to clients all around the UK thanks to our fully insured freepost watch repairs service. As Business Partners of the British Horological Institute and a Feefo Platinum Trusted Service Award accredited business, you can be confident when dealing with us.

We look forward to assisting you very soon

Yours sincerely

David Clark PJGemDip PJDip CertGA
Managing Director

Here at WE Clark Watch Repairs we repair many different types and age of watch – from vintage pocket watches through to modern watches from brands such as Omega and Rolex. One of the most common repairs we’re asked to conduct is servicing. Servicing means giving a watch a thorough overhaul – completely disassembling and cleaning the movement, before reassembling, oiling, adjusting and finally testing the watch. If a watch is not regularly maintained or is damaged in some regard, it is more likely we’ll find a number of faults which add to the workload involved in the service. These faults need correcting in order for the watch to run correctly and some are more common than others. In this blog post we’ll give you an idea of three of the faults we may encounter.

One of the most common faults we find is a broken mainspring. The mainspring is the source of power for a mechanical watch. It is coiled up inside a barrel and constantly winding/unwinding, unless of course the watch is not being worn. In vintage watches we may find mainsprings made out of carbon steel – this material is very prone to breaking (especially after years of use) and becoming ‘set’ – in other words extremely tired. Modern watches use alloy mainsprings which tend to be more hardy, though they can still become misshapen or break. Generally speaking we replace the mainspring as part of every watch service to ensure your watch has a fresh source of power.

Worn pivots are another fault we see. In order for a watch to work properly, the pivots of wheels need to be in excellent condition. Sometimes the wear can be light, other times – especially in neglected watches – pivots can be almost completely worn through. Certain parts are more prone to wear than others, and this varies from movement to movement. Take a modern ETA 2892 for example – the reversing wheel is often in need of replacement. In the image you can see an example of a reversing wheel from an Omega watch our client never had serviced – clearly this needed changing!

Broken teeth on a wheel is something we encounter from time to time. Again, a lack of regular maintenance makes this issue far more likely. Unmaintained watches may become more difficult to wind or set the time as the oils and greases which should keep everything working nicely dry up. We’ve seen watches where clients have rigorously wound or set the time despite the increased resistance, and this has broken multiple teeth from wheels. A mainspring failing may also cause a sudden burst of power to go through the movement and this can lead to multiple wheels failing.

There are of course many faults in addition to the above, though we hope these give you a flavour of what we encounter on a day-to-day basis. One of the main ways you can look after your watch to mitigate the chance of problems occurring is to ensure it is regularly maintained by a watchmaker – For mechanical watches we suggest service intervals of 3-5 years.

If you have a watch in need of attention, do get in contact to see how we can help. We are able to repair almost any watch and we offer a comprehensive watch repair service. We cater to clients all around the UK thanks to our fully insured freepost watch repairs service. As Business Partners of the British Horological Institute and a Feefo Platinum Trusted Service Award accredited business, you can be confident when dealing with us.

Yours sincerely

David Clark PJDip. PJGemDip. CertGA.
Managing Director
W.E. Clark & Son Limited.

Continuing on from part one, in this blog post we’ll look at some more of the tools and equipment we use on a day-to-day basis.

Watchmaking tools and equipment come in all different shapes and sizes to suit the huge variety of jobs a watchmaker’s workshop will undertake. Two types of tool we use in almost every job are watchmaker’s screwdrivers and tweezers.

Good screwdrivers and tweezers are of paramount importance. When used with the correct technique and maintenance these are tools which will last for many years. There are a number of excellent brands producing quality products out there – Our preference is to use Bergeon screwdrivers and Dumont tweezers. The set of screwdrivers we use on a day-to-day basis consists of ten individual anti-magnetic screwdrivers on a rotating stand. The sizes range from 0.50mm up to 3mm – this size range accommodates almost any size watch screw. The blades are also anti-magnetic and dressed using a sharpening stone though they can also be replaced as necessary. Our go-to tweezers are Dumont anti-magnetic “number one” – This particular style has fine strong tips. Of course many different tweezers types and styles are needed for different purposes – from epoxy coated to brass to Delrin tipped.

Having excellent screwdrivers and tweezers is all well and good, but you need to get into the watch first! That’s where our range of case opening and closing tools comes in.

Some watches have case backs which snap or press on – these can be removed with specially shaped case back removers, or, our preference is for the traditional watchmaker’s case knife. This is rather like a pen knife with two blades – the shorter of which is used to open snap on case backs.

Other watches have screw-on case backs. The case back and case are threaded, so the back screws into the case. In order to remove these backs we have a number of specialist tools. The smallest option we have is a handheld remover called a Jaxa wrench. We also have a bench top tool where the watch is held securely upside down between two plastic dies – the case back is then unscrewed by twisting the correct opening die via a large wheel. This tool is great as we can fit various different dies specific to all the different watch brands. For example Rolex, Breitling and Omega all use completely different dies.

When it comes to refitting the case back, in the instance of screw on backs it’s essentially the opposite of removal. Some snap-on case backs may prove stubborn and not snap into place by finger strength alone, so having a good mechanical press is useful. Again, we have a selection of different types. Some of these serve a double function and are also used as a glass press (for fitting different styles of watch crystal glasses). It’s extremely important to make sure the correct size and shape of die is used – hence we have a wide selection. If you don’t use the correct size, you risk misshaping the case back or damaging the case or glass.

If you have a watch in need of repair – do get in contact with us. We are watch repair specialists with a fully insured freepost watch repairs service.  We offer repairs to clients all around the UK and we are experts in the repair of modern and vintage watches. As holders of a Feefo Platinum Trusted Service Award and business partners of the British Horological Institute, you can be confident in the service we provide.

Yours sincerely,

David Clark PJDip PJGemDip CertGA
Managing Director
W.E. Clark & Son Ltd.

Here at WE Clark Watch Repairs we have invested in various pieces of equipment, supplies and tools to ensure we are able to offer a comprehensive range of watch repairs. From full servicing through to battery replacement, we are able to help.

In this blog post, which will run across multiple posts, you can find out more about our workshop.

There are some pieces of equipment which are vital in a watch repair workshop. One such example is a watch cleaning machine. When servicing a watch, the movement is disassembled and needs cleaning prior to reassembly. This is where the cleaning machine comes in. When the watch movement is ready for cleaning, the disassembled parts are put into small trays which slot into a cleaning basket. This basket is then fitted to the watch cleaning machine.

The machine itself uses a motor to rotate the basket as it is immersed in cleaning or rinsing solutions. The basket can be moved between three or four jars which are filled with your choice of solutions, followed by a final drying stage. These machines come in a variety of styles – from older types which do not use ultrasonics and require the user to manually move the cleaning basket between jars, to fully automated machines with ultrasonic capabilities. It is possible to get good results with many different cleaning arrangements, though the older style machines are more labour intensive in terms of ‘pre-cleaning’ to ensure you achieve this.

We have two cleaning machines in regular use. Our more ‘basic’ model is a vintage Elma Super Elite. This is non-ultrasonic and uses one cleaning jar followed by two rinses and a final drying stage. Our main machine is a modern Greiner ACS 900. This is an industry standard cleaning machine which is fully automatic and programmable, offering ultrasonic cleaning with four jars and one drying position. In terms of cleaning fluids we have settled on using Elma WF Pro cleaner and Suprol Pro rinse in each machine. These are non-aqueous solutions and we achieve excellent results with these fluids.

Another major piece of equipment in regular use is our Sigma SM-8850 watch pressure testing machine. This is able to test watches rated up to 300m water resistant. It tests using air pressure, so it is connected to a compressor which in turn is fitted with a booster as it requires plenty of pressure to reach 100m+. By using air pressure we are able to test the watch complete, so with or without the movement inside. From a user perspective it’s straightforward to use – taking just a few minutes to perform two different types of test, we are then provided with details of the performance of the watch alongside the overall pass/fail result.

The last piece of equipment featuring in this blog post is our polishing machine. This is used when refinishing and polishing watch cases and bracelets. The polishing machine is made by Durston – a British family business who make a whole variety of quality tools and equipment. It gets a huge amount of use between the watch and jewellery workshops. It is a double spindle design with two dust extractor fans and integrated light fittings. The machine itself is used in combination with different wheels, mops and compounds which are specific to the type of metal and stage of polishing. It is important to not use the same wheels for different metals as, for example, were a wheel used for polishing steel to be used on gold, it will not result in a good finish.

Check back for part two of this blog post about our workshop equipment, tools and supplies. Our workshop is able to offer a full range of watch repairs on both modern and vintage models. With our fully insured freepost service we are able to offer repairs to clients all around the UK. You can rest assured in our level of service and quality of work – our Feefo Platinum Trusted Service Award is testament to this. Do contact us with any repair needs you may have.

Yours sincerely

David Clark PJDip PJGemDip CertGA
Managing Director
W.E. Clark & Son Ltd.

In the world of watch repair we see plenty of different types and styles of watch. Differences can be found in many different areas – be it the style of dial, functions the watch provides, type of case, type of escapement… the list is huge. In this blog post we’re going to focus on the difference between a manual-wind and an automatic watch.

Similarities of the Watch Types

To provide some background – Manual-wind and automatic watches are generally speaking very similar, they are both types of mechanical watch. All mechanical watches rely on certain principles:

• There needs to be a source of motive force to power the watch
• A gear train is needed to operate the time indication.
• Something is needed to control the speed at which the gear train moves (escapement and oscillator)
• A mechanism is needed to wind the watch
• A mechanism is needed to set the time
• All these parts must be attached to a frame or plate

In the vast majority of the above areas, there is no fundamental difference between a manual-wind and automatic watch.

Both manual-wind and automatic watches use a spring (the mainspring) as their form of motive force to power the watch. This spring is coiled inside a small drum (barrel) and when the watch is wound, the spring is constantly trying to unwind.

The force this produces is transferred through the gear train and released in a controlled manner by the action of the escapement and oscillator. The manner in which this spring is wound up is where the key difference between manual-wind and automatic watches can be found.

Manually wound movements

A manual-wind watch, as the name would suggest, is wound up by hand. Rotating the crown (winder) results in the mainspring being wound up via a series of wheels.

The mainspring is prevented from unwinding by a recoiling click and ratchet wheel. The click allows the ratchet to turn in one direction to wind up, but blocks it in the opposite direction. It recoils slightly to prevent the mainspring being wound extremely tightly, as this could lead to problems caused by too much force being produced .

Two examples of mechanical hand-wound watch movements.

Automatically wound movements

An automatic watch may also facilitate winding using the above system, though the mainspring used in an automatic watch is different. Automatic mainsprings are designed to slip around the inside of the barrel once they reach a certain point of winding. This is necessary because the watch is constantly being wound, via an automatic winding mechanism, as it is worn.

A disassembled ETA 2836-2 movement, undergoing repair in our workshop.

Automatic winding mechanisms come in a huge number of different designs – some better and more efficient than others! They usually involve an oscillating weight (or rotor), which swings through 360 degrees with the movement of the watch on the wrist. The motion of the rotor is transferred through to the ratchet and mainspring via a reverser mechanism. During watch servicing these reversers are often worn out and in need of replacement, as they have a hard life, though some types like the “magic lever” system are quite robust.

Automatically wound mechanisms, the oscillating rotor can be seen in here.

Manual-Wind vs Automatic Watches

So manual-wind and automatic watch are very similar. The difference lies in the method in which the mainspring is wound up, and the type of mainspring used. Automatic watches are wound by the movement of the watch on your wrist, and they may also be wound up by rotating the crown. Manual-wind watches are wound up by rotating the crown only.

We are able to repair almost any type and brand of manual-wind and automatic mechanical watches. From vintage manual-wind Rotary and Omega, through to modern automatic Rolex and Tag Heuer, we are able to help.

If you have a watch in need of repair – do not hesitate to contact us. We offer a fully insured, freepost repairs service to clients all around the UK and our Feefo Platinum Trusted Service Award is testament to the excellent service we provide to our clients.

Please ask us any question you may have, or send a photo via our Ask the Watchmaker page.

We look forward to hearing from you soon

David Clark PJGemDip PJDip CertGA
Managing Director
W.E. Clark & Son Limited

Certain watches have real investment potential, so if you are passionate about your timepieces, a watch could be something you want to consider investing in. Just like certain vintage cars, there are notable examples of watches selling for incredible prices. In 2017 The Rolex Daytona ‘Paul Newman’ owned by Paul Newman himself sold for a record 17.8 million dollars!

However, choosing a good investment watch isn’t easy. You’ll need to familiarise yourself with the brands and models expected to increase in value over time, and for that you’ll need an experienced eye.

There is much more to selecting a watch to invest in than being guided by brand. The value of a watch isn’t purely based on brand and craftsmanship, it also depends on rarity and demand. Discontinued watches are very collectible and will usually sell for more that their purchase price a few years later.

Rolex, Omega and Patek Philippe are notably the most collectable watch brands from around the world. But other watch brands to look out for are Audemars and Tudor. The Audemars Piguet, Royal Oak Extra-thin currently retails at around £50,000 and being such a limited edition, its value would be expected to rise in value in the next 10 years.

For a more reasonable investment, the Tudor Heritage Black Bay retails at around £3,000, but has good investment potential. The watch is a relatively new entrant to the investment market, but has a classic design, which is likely to stand the test of time.

Panerai have a bit of a cult following. A rare Second World War watch by Panerai Radiomir soared in price from £16,000 to £58,000 over the period of a decade.

Be aware that modern watches are made in much larger quantities and may not generate such a large return on your investment.

Most important of all when you are buying an investment watch is the condition of the timepiece. Watches that are most likely to hold their value or increase in value over time are those that are as near to their original condition as possible. Variations released after original models don’t usually hold their value as well as those with the original spec.

If you are seriously considering putting some money into a watch as an investment, read on for some tips from our Master Watchmaker.

1 – Pick a brand that has performed consistently across generations

Luxury watch brands, like Rolex, are almost certain to sell for more than their original cost. Rolex has an impressive reputation and an equally impressive list of celebrities who have endorsed the brand and even particular watch models.

2 – Do your research

It’s a good idea to check out watches that have gone up in investment value and understand why. There are a number of iconic watches that are likely to always keep their value, as well as the obvious brands (Rolex and Patek).

3 – Go for limited edition

Look out for limited editions and special collaborations as these watches are more likely to hold their price and go up in value. Statement timepieces (like the Rolex Oyster Perpetual Pearlmaster Yellow Gold, with yellow and orange sapphirres) will be more sought after and are usually easier to sell, though it will depend on the watch’s condition.

4 – Go for a mechanical watch

With expert attention, a mechanical watch can keep going forever. Even when mechanical parts become obsolete, qualified Master Watchmakers can source replacement parts or make identical parts and keep watch movements in perfect working order. Be aware that replacing watch parts may negatively affect the value of the timepiece.

5 – Keep your investment watch in tip top condition

When it comes to cashing in on your investment, the quality and condition of the watch matters. Keep your watch in tip top condition, but be wary of watch repair services who don’t have a Master Watchmaker. See here for more information on the watch repair services available by our Master Watchmaker.

6 – Don’t put all of your money into watches

As with any investment, owning watches doesn’t come without risk. There are never any guarantees that your investment in a timepiece will go up. When it comes to making a serious investment in watches, you need to know your stuff.

If you don’t have the expertise, consider smaller, affordable investments that have the potential to increase in value. It’s always a good idea to spread the risk when you are making investments.

7 – Be patient

Never invest in a watch expecting the value to increase soon after you’ve bought it. Investment watches don’t usually see a real return for a few years. If it’s a good investment, you should see a return after 5 to 10 years.

8 – Check your home insurance

After purchasing an investment timepiece, check with your home insurance provider that your investment watch is covered against theft or damage.

9 – The best investment timepieces

You can rarely go wrong with these:

• Original Breitling Navitimer
• Rolex Submariner
• Rolex Daytona
• Omega Cosmic Triple Calendar
• Omega Speedmaster
• TAG Heuer Carrerra
• Patek Philippe Nautilus
• Audemars Piguet Royal Oak