Tag Heuer Carrera Chronograph Servicing

As a Tag Heuer Authorised Workshop we are approved to repair Tag Heuer watches. We are able to order parts direct from Tag Heuer to repair almost any fault – from a broken glass or crown through to parts needed to repair the movement.

This job involved working on a Tag Heuer Carrera Chronograph which arrived to us in well used condition. From the condition of the case it appeared to be our client’s daily wear watch. These watches are absolutely meant to be worn, so some aesthetic wear is to be expected.

On arrival the automatic winding was not working and putting the watch on our timegrapher showed it was not in good working order.

The movement – a Tag Heuer calibre 16, based on an ETA 7750) – was in desperate need of a service. The reversing wheel, part of the automatic winding mechanism, was thoroughly worn out. This needed replacing during the service alongside a few other components.

Servicing the movement involved completely stripping down the Calibre 16 automatic chronograph movement. These are excellent movements and the base calibre is used in many high quality chronograph watches. Everything is checked and cleaned by hand, before being put through our watch movement cleaning machine. Reassembly and oiling can then take place. We use a variety of different lubricants and oils based on the part and function. We adhere to the manufacturers specification for this, as given on the movement data sheet.

Once the movement is serviced, we can begin complete reassembly. We reunite the movement, dial and hands with the thoroughly cleaned case. We can then pressure test the complete watch for water resistance before it goes on test prior to collection by our client. A job well done – this Tag Heuer Carrera Chronograph is back to excellent working order after this intervention.

Yours sincerely

David Clark FGA DGA MJVA PJDip. PJGemDip.

Managing Director, JVA Registered Valuer®

W.E. Clark & Son Limited

Tag Heuer 2000 Watch Repair and Service

We are able to offer a comprehensive range of repairs for Tag Heuer watches. Our workshop is a Tag Heuer Authorised Workshop – this means we have been assessed to meet the standards required for on-site Tag Heuer repairs, covering the full range of interventions up to full servicing and repair.

This Tag Heuer is one of the 2000 range and dates from the mid-1990s. On our initial inspection, the watch appeared to be in decent aesthetic condition. The date change was a little sluggish so this needed looking into. We also found it to be very “clicky” when winding by hand – a sure sign that something is amiss. Otherwise, the hands set as they should, and the watch appeared to be running albeit with poor performance according to our timing machine.

On opening the case back the movement is revealed – a calibre 2824-2 automatic movement produced by ETA. These are excellent movements and we regularly work on them.

During disassembly, we found a number of faults. The winding pinion was worn – this was the cause of the clicking sound when manually winding the watch. The ratchet wheel teeth were also worn, so this needed replacing, as did the barrel where two teeth were almost completely missing.

The date jumper spring had weakened, so we needed to replace this. This would correct the fault with the sluggish date change.

As a Tag Heuer Authorised Workshop, we are able to order the required parts to complete this repair direct from the manufacturer. While they were not required in this instance, we are able to obtain case parts too, such as bezels, crowns, glasses, pushers and seals. Only authorised workshops can order these parts for Tag Heuer watches.

After a full cycle in our specialist watch movement cleaning machine, we can begin reassembly. We follow the manufacturer’s technical guidelines for correct assembly and use the specified oils and greases. This ensures the watch is running at optimal performance after servicing.

After a full service, this Tag Heuer 2000 watch is back to excellent working order. After closing the case back for the final time we pressure test the watch to its original rating of 200m before testing timekeeping performance using our Elma Cyclomotion automatic watch winder over a number of days. It is then ready to return to our client.

Yours sincerely

David Clark FGA DGA MJVA PJDip. PJGemDip.

Managing Director, JVA Registered Valuer®

W.E. Clark & Son Limited

BHI Awards Day

On the 28th October 2023, Dan, one of our watchmakers, attended the prestigious British Horological Institute Awards Day at their headquarters, Upton Hall in Nottinghamshire. The BHI Awards Day sees watchmakers and clockmakers recognised for excellent performance in BHI exams. There are also awards presented to exceptional horologists for their achievements in the field. In his own words:

“I was very happy to attend the BHI Awards Day in October. I received the invitation following my performance in two servicing exams I sat earlier in the year. Watch servicing and repair is the core of what we do, so it’s very pleasing to have won two awards for the quality of my work.

The two exams I sat were approximately 8 hours long. As in real life, I had in front of me a watch to repair and service. However, in this instance examiners have introduced faults to the watch. It was my job to carefully examine everything about the watch, identify the faults and take the necessary corrective action, alongside cleaning and servicing everything to a high standard.

It’s always a little nerve-wracking during exams. I was confident both watches I left at the end of each day were working correctly and well within the required parameters, so while I waited for the results I reminded myself of that!

I was thrilled when the results arrived to find I had not only passed both exams with merit, but I also won both “best serviced watch” prizes. It’s brilliant to have my work – conducted under rather stressful exam conditions – found to be of a high standard.

I attended the awards day with my wife and received the two awards in person. It’s a brilliant event and a chance to meet and talk to many notable horologists from around the world. After the ceremony there was a chance to look round the Museum of Timekeeping, where the wonderful volunteers opened all the exhibits for us. We even had the chance to experience a guided tour led by the outgoing BHI President”.

WE Clark Watch Repairs are Business Partners of the BHI because we fully support their role assessing and educating horologists, as well as promoting the industry as a whole. We’re sure you’ll join us all in congratulating Dan for his success.

Yours sincerely

David Clark FGA DGA MJVA PJDip. PJGemDip.

Managing Director, JVA Registered Valuer®

W.E. Clark & Son Limited

Vintage watch repairs price list

Our on-site workshop in Lewes, East Sussex offer a full range of watch repairs to mechanical and quartz watches, both modern and vintage. We are equipped with some of the latest watchmaking tools and equipment, including an Elma Solvex movement cleaning machine, Witschi Watch Expert IV and a Sigma pressure testing machine capable of testing watches rated at up to 300m water resistant.

To be involved in horology it really is a passion – this means we are always on the lookout for anything related to our profession. Alongside our workshop we have a collection of antique clocks from our local area, as well as various pieces of vintage watchmaking memorabilia. One of our recent acquisitions came from when we cleared an old jewellers in Eastbourne – it’s a watch repairs price list from pre-decimalisation.

The price list is made of enamel and it does have a large amount of damage, though we feel this rather adds to the charm. Prices are listed in shillings and pence, with cleaning of a “Geneva” watch costing 2 shillings and a Lever watch 2 shillings and 6 pence. We particularly like the “best materials only used” text at the bottom of the price list.

When found this item was not framed and it needed some cleaning up in order to make it presentable. So after it was given a clean, we used the services of a fantastic local framing company  – Kings Framers – here in Lewes. This needed to be specially framed as it’s quite a thick sign. Kings Framers really did a fantastic job and we feel the black and gold frame really sets it off nicely. After framing we just needed to find a home on our wall – it’s now in a prominent position near the workshop door.

Yours sincerely

David Clark FGA DGA MJVA PJDip. PJGemDip.

Managing Director, JVA Registered Valuer®

W.E. Clark & Son Limited

Tag Heuer Authorised Workshop

TAG Heuer is a renowned Swiss watchmaker with a rich heritage spanning over a century. Founded in 1860 by Edouard Heuer, this luxury brand has consistently pushed the boundaries of horology, merging innovation with precision craftsmanship. TAG Heuer is celebrated for its avant-garde spirit and its commitment to creating timepieces that excel in both form and function.

Here at WE Clark Watch Repairs we are delighted to announce our workshop is a Tag Heuer Authorised Workshop. This means we have been assessed by Tag Heuer and deemed suitably equipped and with the requisite skills to repair a whole variety of Tag Heuer watches.

From relatively simple interventions such as watch battery replacement with new seals and pressure testing (at up to 300m) to full servicing of Tag Heuer movements such as the Calibre 5 and Calibre 16, we are able to obtain genuine Tag Heuer parts direct from the manufacturer and repair your watch.

All Tag Heuer repairs are completed using the manufacturer approved tooling to their specified standards.

We are also able to obtain a whole range of case parts, such as replacement crowns, bezels, glasses, and pushers.

Yours sincerely

David Clark FGA DGA MJVA PJDip. PJGemDip.

Managing Director, JVA Registered Valuer®

W.E. Clark & Son Limited

Tag Heuer Carrera Calibre 5 Service and Repair

The watch with us for repair today is a Tag Heuer Carrera. The first Carrera watches came onto the market in the mid-1960s. The model is named after the Carrera Panamerica race – so Carrera watches are rooted in motor racing and sports.

This particular model is relatively modern – from within the past 20 years – and uses a Tag calibre 5 movement. This is a Tag Heuer customised version of the ETA 2824-2, a 25 jewel automatic movement which is used extensively in good quality Swiss watches.

Initial inspection revealed the watch to be working but with low amplitude and poor timekeeping. The movement clearly hadn’t been serviced in many years, though nothing appeared to be broken. A full service and new mainspring was needed to restore this watch back to excellent working order.

To service a watch it is completely stripped down before the movement parts are thoroughly cleaned. We clean parts both by hand and then using our Elma specialist watch movement cleaning machine – this way we can be certain everything is in good order and as clean as we can possibly make it.

After cleaning, rebuilding and oiling of the mechanism begins. We use a range of oils and greases to lubricate the different parts of the watch movement as per the manufacturers technical guidance. Once the movement is complete, the dial and hands are refitted, we are then ready for the final casing up.

With the watch cased up we conduct a final test on the timegrapher before closing the case back and pressure testing for water resistance. Our Sigma pressure testing machine is capable of testing watches up to a rating of 300m – more than sufficient for this model.

Do you have a Tag Heuer Carrera watch in need of repair? Get in touch and see how we can help. We are watch repair specialists and experts in the repair of both modern and vintage watches. We hold a parts account with Tag Heuer, so we have access to the full range of Tag Heuer case and bracelet parts, including genuine Tag Heuer replacement glasses, bezels and crowns.

Yours sincerely

David Clark FGA DGA MJVA PJDip. PJGemDip.

Managing Director, JVA Registered Valuer®

W.E. Clark & Son Limited

Mallory Watch Restoration

George Mallory was a pioneering British mountaineer who became famous for his numerous expeditions to Mount Everest, the highest peak in the world. Born on June 18, 1886, Mallory developed a passion for mountaineering at a young age and dedicated his life to pushing the boundaries of human achievement in the Himalayas.

Mallory’s most significant and enduring legacy lies in his attempts to reach the summit of Mount Everest, particularly the 1924 British Everest Expedition. During this expedition, Mallory and his climbing partner, Andrew Irvine, made a daring bid for the summit. On June 8, 1924, the pair set off from their high camp and were spotted by their teammates only a short distance from the summit. However, they were swallowed by clouds, and that was the last time they were seen alive.

Mallory’s fascination with the mountain extended beyond his quest for conquest. He was known for his eloquent and poetic musings on the allure of Everest. When asked about why he wanted to climb the mountain, Mallory famously replied, “Because it’s there.” This simple phrase encapsulated the spirit of adventure and the innate human desire to explore the unknown.

The mystery surrounding Mallory’s fate persisted for decades. In 1999, an expedition discovered Mallory’s body on the mountain, offering new clues but no definitive answers about whether he and Irvine had reached the summit before their tragic end.

One of the enduring symbols of Mallory’s Everest expedition is his watch. It was a fantastic quality Borgel wristwatch and a poignant reminder of the daring spirit and the timeless quest for human achievement that Mallory embodied. Today, the watch is held in high regard by mountaineering enthusiasts and historians alike, serving as a testament to the indomitable spirit of exploration.

Indeed, many take their passion to the next level and look to create a replica of the Mallory watch. Our client was in a position to do this, though the watch needed extensive restoration to get it to full working order. We needed to fit a replacement dial and fully service and restore the movement. We were able to re-use the existing hands, as well as clean up the case.

Once the work was complete our client was thrilled with the results. The period Borgel case looks stunning, as does the dial, and the Fontainemelon movement is back to excellent working order. It’s a wonderful tribute to a true pioneer of mountaineering and an icon of British endeavour and adventurous spirit.

Yours sincerely

David Clark FGA DGA MJVA PJDip. PJGemDip.

Managing Director, JVA Registered Valuer®

W.E. Clark & Son Limited

BHI Business Partner

In the world of watchmaking, there isn’t really anything to stop someone setting up a workshop with absolutely no training and calling themselves a watchmaker. This is certainly the case in the UK at the very least. This can of course lead to confusion for the customer, as how do you know you’re dealing with a reputable business with trained horologists?

The British Horological Institute was founded in 1858 and aimed to unite the horological industry in the UK in the face of increasing numbers of imported watches and clocks. Edward Daniel Johnson proposed the founding of the institute, with it’s original mission statement being:

“The objects for which this Institute is founded are to develop the science of Horology, to foster the arts and various branches of manufacture arising from it, and to stimulate and encourage the production of best workmanship, by suitable rewards and marks of distinction, and to attain these results by the formation of a library, reading room and a collection of tools, models and machinery, also by the delivery of lectures, and the reading of original papers […]”

The Institute expanded very quickly, and continued to expand with a museum, large horological library and workshops providing classes. The Horological Journal was soon established – this is a monthly publication dealing with all things Horology. It holds claim to the title of the longest continually published technical journal in the world – it is still published to this day.

BHI Offices

Nowadays the BHI is based in Upton, which is just outside of Newark in Nottinghamshire. It’s role is to promote horology and provide education for horologists. The BHI also maintains the associated Museum Of Timekeeping and the vast Horological Library.

WE Clark Watch Repairs are Business Partners of the BHI. We’ve partnered with the BHI because we strongly believe in their role overseeing watchmaking and maintaining standards across the UK and beyond. Our watchmakers have been trained with the BHI and taken accredited exams to prove their knowledge in the areas of horology necessary to carry out high standards of repairs.

Yours sincerely

David Clark PJDip PJGemDip CertGA
Managing Director

When should I get my watch serviced and why?

Like anything with moving parts, a mechanical watch needs periodic servicing in order to allow it to continue working properly for years to come. Even if you’ve had a watch for many years which has never seen a watchmaker, but it’s still ticking, this does not mean everything is fine and it does not require any attention.

It’s important to note there’s a big difference between a watch which is working and a watch which is actually keeping time. If a watch has gone decades without seeing a watchmaker, yet it is still working, this more down to the fantastic design of the watch movement rather than a sign that your watch is in good condition. It’s worth remembering there are many other elements to a watch movement on top of those involved purely in timekeeping. The winding mechanism for example. If you have an automatic watch, this is an area we see showing wear on watches which have been well maintained, let alone on watches which have been somewhat neglected. 

 

Watches rely on good quality oils and greases to allow them to run efficiently. These lubricants decrease friction to keep the mechanism running optimally. Over the years, oils and greases start to degrade and dry up. Old oil and grease then begin to actually increase friction. This in turn leads to wear. If you have a particularly rare or old watch, this may cause issues as worn parts may not be freely available. This could lead to parts needing to be made, exponentially increasing the cost of the repair. Even if your watch is relatively modern, there will undoubtedly be a much higher repair bill if many components are worn and need replacing. 

We advise our customers to have their watches serviced every 3-5 years, depending on the model. There are of course some exceptions, though this is a general rule. We have encountered some surprise from clients at the need to maintain a watch regularly. The analogy I like to make is with servicing your car. Imagine your watch movement is like a tiny engine. If you wear it daily, it’s ticking away 24 hours a day, 7 days a week, 365 days a year. It’s a truly remarkable thing. Imagine running your car non-stop for such a length of time! The need for maintenance seems a little less surprising thinking about it in such terms. 

When you have a top-quality timepiece from the likes of Rolex, Omega or Tag Heuer, it makes sense to look after it. By ensuring your watch is kept regularly serviced it will continue to provide you with years and years of reliable service and may then become an heirloom to pass on to the next generation.

Do you have a watch in need of servicing? Contact us to see how we can help. We offer a repairs service both locally via our shops in Lewes and Uckfield, as well as nationally via our fully insured secure postal repairs service. We are experts in the repair of watches and have the skills to take on a huge variety of repairs. We are business partners of the British Horological Institute and we hold a Platinum Trusted Service award from Feefo – testament to the consistent, excellent reviews we receive from our clients. 

Yours sincerely

David Clark DGA PJDip PJGemDip CertGA
Managing Director
W.E. Clark & Son Limited.

 

Replacing A Watch Glass

One of the most frequent jobs we tackle in the workshop involves replacing the watch glass. But did you know there are various different types, shapes and sizes of watch glass? In this blog post we’ll look at the most common types and examine their advantages.

Firstly, it may sound basic, but the glass we fit to a watch depends on what the watch was designed to take. For example, a watch designed for a modern mineral glass would not have an acrylic dome fitted as it likely just wouldn’t fit properly. We tend to fit the same type as has been removed, unless of course we note an incorrect type has been fitted previously.

We commonly fit replacement plexi-glass domes (or “UB” glasses as they’re also known). These are made of acrylic and were introduced in the 20th century. The standard type of plexi-glass fits into a groove around the edge of a watch bezel. The groove is slightly smaller in diameter than the glass and when fitted using a special tool, the tension holds it in place. The tool we use slightly distorts the glass allowing it to be fitted, before the tool is released and the glass is left held firmly in place. 

There is a variation on these plexi-glasses which we regularly see on watches which were, when they were made, designed to have a level of water resistancy. This variation adds a tension ring inside the watch glass. This ring effectively holds the glass tighter against the case and so decreases the chances of water getting between the glass and the case.

In modern watches we most commonly find mineral watch glasses. This is a type of glass which is somewhat toughened – especially compared to glasses found on early/pre-20th century watches – though it is not as tough as a sapphire crystal. Mineral glasses can come in a whole range of shapes, sizes and thicknesses. They can also be either flat or domed, just depending on the watch in question. A mineral glass is fitted either into a glass gasket or held in place by special UV glass adhesive. Fitting into a gasket involves using a press type tool, with which we carefully press down onto the glass until it’s fitted correctly.

The sapphire crystal is found on most modern mid to high end watches. These glasses are literally made of sapphire, though a man-made version. They are extremely strong and scratch resistant, with sapphire rating 9 on the Mohs scale of hardness. Perhaps unsurprisingly these glasses are significantly more expensive than their mineral crystal counterparts. Certain brands also coat their sapphire crystal glasses with anti-reflective coating – hence you may see a blue tinge if you hold, for example, a modern Breitling at an angle towards a light. Sapphire crystals are held in place usually with a glass gasket, though they may also be bonded in place using UV glass adhesive. 

Do you have a watch in need of a new glass? Contact us to see how we can help. We offer a repairs service both locally via our shops in Lewes and Uckfield, as well as nationally via our fully insured secure postal repairs service. We are experts in the repair of watches and have the skills to take on a huge variety of repairs. We are business partners of the British Horological Institute and we hold a Platinum Trusted Service award from Feefo – testament to the consistent, excellent reviews we receive from our clients. 

Yours sincerely

David Clark DGA PJDip PJGemDip CertGA
Managing Director
W.E. Clark & Son Limited.