Black Dial Omega Seamaster Servicing and Repair

The Omega Seamaster is an iconic watch and one we see regularly in our workshop. The history of the model can be traced back to the 1940s and the brand’s military and professional watches produced for the British Royal Navy during World War II. These watches were highly durable and water-resistant, essential qualities for military personnel. Modern versions of the Seamaster are often linked to James Bond, who has worn an Omega Seamaster in various films since 1995.

This client’s watch arrived showing some water ingress as the glass was steaming up. The watch was not working and clearly in need of work.

Inspection of the movement revealed some damage caused by water, though the water ingress was luckily relatively minor. These Omega Seamaster watches are powered by the Omega calibre 1120 movement – an automatic mechanical watch movement of excellent quality. This is a modified version of a movement produced by ETA – one of the top watch movement manufacturers. The modifications are designed to improve performance, with 23 jewels and a three arm Glucydur balance amongst the modifications made to the base movement.

To repair the watch it is first fully disassembled and each part inspected. Wear was found on some train wheels and the reverser. We also noted too much endshake on the fourth wheel and a mainspring in need of replacement. The disassembled movement is run through our specialist watch movement cleaning machine, while the case and bracelet are cleaned in a separate ultrasonic cleaner. After cleaning, the movement is carefully reassembled and oiled with replacement parts fitted. To correct the endshake problem we adjust the fourth wheel jewel on the train bridge using a Horia jewelling tool. Once assembled the dial and hands are then refitted, before the complete movement is fitted into the case.

Once cased up we fine-tune the timekeeping to make sure the watch is as accurate as it can be. As this model is chronometer rated it is very accurate – when new it went through a series of strict tests to ensure excellent timekeeping accuracy. We always endeavour to get timekeeping as accurate as we can and various factors can affect this, including the calibre of the movement, age and condition of the watch.

One of the last elements of the job is to pressure test for water resistance. The Omega Seamaster is rated to 300m water resistant – we are able to test to this depth using our Sigma watch pressure testing machine. Finally we refit the bracelet before the watch will go on test prior to return to our client. It’s always a pleasure to work on an Omega Seamaster and this was no exception.

Yours sincerely

David Clark FGA DGA MJVA PJDip. PJGemDip.

Managing Director, JVA Registered Valuer®

W.E. Clark & Son Limited

Water Damaged Tag Heuer repair

Tag Heuer is a brand we regularly see in our workshop. Tag Heuer in its current form was established in 1985, though the Heuer company has existed since 1860. Watches are produced both with quartz and automatic movements in a variety of different models including the Aquaracer, Kirium, F1 and Carrera.

Our workshop holds a parts account with Tag Heuer so we are able to obtain genuine Tag Heuer parts and repair many different faults with these watches.

This particular Tag Heuer came into our workshop in poor condition. It was water damaged, as can clearly be seen by the white ring around the inside of the glass. The dial itself was also water damaged, as were the hands. On inspecting the movement, we found water had damaged this too.

Water damaged Tag HeuerWater damaged Tag Heuer

Other issues included scratching all over the case and bracelet, missing lume from the marker on the bezel, and the black infill missing from the number “1” of “10” on the bezel.

To get this watch working again we needed to completely replace the movement. This involves swapping out the entire movement in a like-for-like exchange. We were able to order the model specific dial, so this was changed as the existing dial was too badly damaged. After speaking to our client, we re-used the original hands, though cleaned these up as best we could.

Fully restored Tag Heuer WatchFully restored Tag Heuer Watch

The case and bracelet were given a thorough clean before then being refinished. This massively improved the appearance of the watch. We could then carefully reapply the black infill to the bezel, as well as the luminous marker.

Now we just needed to reassemble the watch – fitting a brand-new set of seals and making sure it passes as water resistant.

As a Tag Heuer parts account holder we are able to obtain any case parts which may be required. Besides the repairs needed to this watch, other common repairs include bezel replacement (most often necessary on F1 models where the numbers can fade easily), crown replacement and fitting new pushers to chronograph models. We are able to repair very water damaged watches like this one – obtaining anything which needs to be replaced including the dial, hands, seals and of course the movement.

 

Do you have a Tag Heuer watch in need of repair? Get in contact with us to see how we can help. We are able to repair almost any Tag Heuer watch and with our Tag Heuer parts access we offer a comprehensive service. We cater to clients all around the UK thanks to our fully insured freepost watch repairs service. As a Feefo Platinum Trusted Service Award accredited business, you can be confident when dealing with us.

Please Contact Us for further information regarding any requirement you may have.

Yours sincerely

David Clark DGA PJDip PJGemDip CertGA
Managing Director
W.E. Clark & Son Limited

Rolex Oyster Perpetual Date servicing and refinishing

A recent job in the workshop involved servicing and refinishing the case and bracelet of a Rolex Oyster Perpetual Date.

Rolex are arguably the biggest name in the world of watches, with numerous inventions, innovations and awards to their name. Their range of watches includes some truly iconic models including the Datejust, Submariner, Air King and Day-Date.

This particular Rolex is a Date model and uses a Rolex calibre 3135 automatic movement. These movements are excellent quality. They are certified chronometers, so fantastic timekeepers, and they are very reliable.

Rolex calibre 3135 movement

Rolex calibre 3135 movement

To service the movement, it is completely stripped apart, before going through a full cleaning cycle in a specialist watch movement cleaning machine. The movement is then carefully reassembled, with oils and greases used in certain places to ensure optimal performance of the watch for a full-service interval. A new mainspring was fitted during the reassembly process too.

On top of the work to the movement we refinished the case and bracelet.

The refinishing process involved stages of polishing each element of the case using a few different techniques. This is all done using our Durston double polishing motor and a variety of mops and compounds.

Once the refinishing of each part of the case is complete, they are given a final ultrasonic clean. Each part is then steam cleaned to ensure everything is spotless before reassembly.

Reassembling the case is a matter of initially refitting the case tube and glass, before then fitting the friction fit bezel. Once this is done the movement can be re-installed into the case, before the case back is fitted.

The finished fully restored Rolex watchThe finished fully restored Rolex watch

After all the work was completed, the watch undergoes rigorous testing for timekeeping. It is initially regulated by our watchmaker and checked in multiple positions to ensure it is performing as expected. It then is testing for automatic winding on our Elma Cyclomotion winding machine, as well as for power reserve and performance after 24 hours has elapsed.

Please Contact Us for further information regarding any requirement you may have.

Yours sincerely

David Clark DGA PJDip PJGemDip CertGA
Managing Director
W.E. Clark & Son Limited

 

Do you have a Rolex watch in need of repair? Get in contact with us to see how we can help. We are able to repair almost any Rolex watch and we offer a comprehensive watch repair service. We cater to clients all around the UK thanks to our fully insured freepost watch repairs service. You can also bring watches in to our showrooms based in Lewes and Uckfield, Sussex. As Business Partners of the British Horological Institute and a Feefo Platinum Trusted Service Award accredited business, you can be confident when dealing with us.

How a quartz watch works

Quartz watches – watches usually powered by batteries – are very popular and we regularly see a huge variety of quartz models in our workshop. But how does a quartz watch actually work? In this blog post we’ll do our best to describe just how a quartz watch is able to transfer power from a battery through to the hands to indicate the time.

A battery (or strictly speaking, a cell), supplies the electricity needed to power a quartz watch. Electrical energy is produced by a chemical reaction between the two battery terminals and an electrolyte.

In order for a watch to work and accurately tell the time, it needs to use a ‘resonant oscillator’ – that is an oscillator which has a natural frequency of vibration. In mechanical watches or clocks this could be a pendulum (a weight acting against gravity), or a balance (a weight acting against a spring). Quartz watches use – as the name would suggest – a tiny piece of quartz. This piece of quartz is shaped like a tuning fork and when this is made to vibrate, it maintains a constant frequency.

Quartz watch movementQuartz watch movement

Thanks to the piezo-electric effect, applying a voltage to the quartz crystal will set it vibrating. This vibrating quartz crystal acts as the balance would in a mechanical watch and is responsible for the incredible accuracy of quartz watches. Indeed, a standard mechanical watch balance may vibrate at 2.5Hz, whereas a quartz crystal vibrates at a staggering 32,768Hz! This accounts, at least somewhat, for the incredible accuracy of the quartz watch.

In order for a quartz watch with a second hand to tell the time, we need an electrical pulse once per second. The watch integrated circuit is responsible for dividing down this figure to achieve the required single pulse per second.

This regular pulse per second is now used to drive a motor. The motor consists of a rotor, a stator and a coil. The motor is a permanent magnet and it is made to rotate through 180 degrees for each pulse received. Thanks to some clever design, this rotor will always turn in the same direction. That means if we attach a pinion to the top of the rotor we are able to drive a series of wheels from it.

From the rotor, the intermediate wheel is driven, the pinion of the intermediate wheel drives the second wheel (and on the pinion of this the second hand is attached). The second wheel pinion drives the third wheel. The third wheel arbor extends through to the dial side of the watch movement, and this is responsible for turning the driving wheel. The driving wheel leads to the rotation of the minute and hour hands.

 

As you can see from the brief description above, there’s actually quite a lot to a quartz watch. Do you have a quartz watch in need of repair? We are able to repair and restore almost any model and type of watch, including quartz. With our fully insured freepost watch repairs service we offer repairs to clients all around the UK. As holders of a Feefo Platinum Trusted Service Award and business partners of the British Horological Institute you can be confident in the service we provide.

Please Contact Us for further information regarding any requirement you may have.

Yours sincerely

David Clark DGA PJDip PJGemDip CertGA
Managing Director
W.E. Clark & Son Limited

IWC Mark XV servicing

A recent restoration project for one of our clients involved fully servicing an IWC Mark XV automatic watch. These models are very desirable – great looking military style watches, with excellent quality movements.

IWC was founded in 1868 – so over 150 years ago. The company is well known for producing military/aviation style watches, just like the Mark XV.

On arrival in the workshop this watch was not working properly and failing to keep time. Inspection of the movement revealed a lot of dried-up oil and debris in the movement, so a full service and a new mainspring was required.

IWC Automatic Watch

During a full service we completely disassemble the movement, carefully inspecting each component and pre-cleaning in sections as we go. We then run the disassembled movement through our specialist watch movement cleaning machine. We also run the case through a separate ultrasonic cleaner. After cleaning, the movement is carefully reassembled and oiled, before being adjusted and tested.

The movement powering this IWC Mark XV is an IWC calibre 30110, which is based on the ETA 2892-A2 but enhanced by IWC in-house. The 2892-A2 is a good quality automatic movement, which runs at 28,800 beats per hour and has 21 jewels. These movements as standard come in various levels of finish – this IWC version is very nicely decorated and after a full service it is working very nicely indeed.

Watch Mechanical Parts

After work is complete our testing procedure involves testing the watch on an automatic watch winding machine as well as testing under manual winding only. We ensure the watch is tested across a range of positions to confirm it is working as expected and within tolerances.

As you may have guessed by now, the quoted number of jewels quite literally refers to how many of these jewels are present in the movement. Just because a watch has a higher number of jewels does not necessarily mean it’s a better movement though. A mechanical watch will have less need for additional jewels than an automatic watch, as there are fewer moving parts. There was also a historic trend whereby watch manufacturers attempted to out-do each other by adding more and more jewels to their movements, purely as a sales technique. This relied on the ignorance of the consumer and their belief that “more must be better”. As a result, we ended up with jewels in all sorts of places where they have absolutely no purpose. The 100 jewel Orient Grand Prix is a good example of this – it has jewels fitted almost everywhere!

 

Do you have a mechanical watch in need of repair? Here at WE Clark Watch Repairs we are experts in the repair of all makes and models of watch – from vintage pocket watches through to modern big name brands like Tag Heuer, Omega and Rolex. We offer a fully insured freepost watch repairs service to clients all around the UK. As holders of a Feefo Platinum Trusted Service Award and business partners of the British Horological Institute you can be confident in the service we provide.

 

Please Contact Us for further information regarding any requirement you may have.

Yours sincerely

David Clark DGA PJDip PJGemDip CertGA
Managing Director
W.E. Clark & Son Limited

Omega Speedmaster Servicing

A recent restoration project for one of our clients involved fully servicing and repairing a great Omega Speedmaster.

Omega as a brand have a huge, interesting history – they are one of the most prominent watch companies in the world, with numerous inventions, innovations and awards to their name. Their iconic Speedmaster was launched in 1957 and was the first watch worn on the moon. These models features in their range amongst other popular models including the De Ville, Constellation and Seamaster.

The manual wind Speedmaster “Moonwatch” is very well known –  it was worn during the first US spacewalk as part of NASA‘s Gemini 4 mission. It was also the first watch worn by an astronaut walking on the Moon during the Apollo 11 mission. The Speedmaster Professional remains one of several watches qualified by NASA for spaceflight and is still the only one so qualified for EVA (Extra Vehicular Activity).

While the Speedmaster is commonly associated with space missions, these models were originally produced in the late 50s as sports watches to complement Omega’s sponsorship of the Olympic games. The name “Speedmaster” was coined due to the tachymeter scale and followed the conventions set by other model lines such as the Seamaster.

On arrival in the workshop this watch was not working properly and failing to keep time. Upon inspection of the movement there was a lot of dried up oil and debris in the movement, so a full service and a new mainspring was required. During a full service we completely disassemble the movement and run it through our specialist watch movement cleaning machine. We also run the case and bracelet through a separate ultrasonic cleaner. After cleaning, the movement is carefully reassembled and oiled, before being adjusted and tested.

Following our service, this Omega Speedmaster is working again just as it should be. It’s a superb watch.

Do you have an Omega Speedmaster in need of repair? If so, get in touch and see how we can help. We are watch repair specialists with a fully insured freepost watch repairs service.  We offer repairs to clients all around the UK and we are experts in the repair of modern and vintage watches. As holders of a Feefo Platinum Trusted Service Award and business partners of the British Horological Institute you can be confident in the service we provide.

Please Contact Us for further information regarding any requirement you may have.

 

Yours sincerely

 

David Clark DGA PJDip PJGemDip CertGA

Managing Director

W.E. Clark & Son Limited

Vintage Moeris Watch Servicing

We deal with a huge variety of watches in our workshop, ranging from modern Omega and Rolex through to vintage wrist and pocket watches. Vintage watches often need extra special care and attention, especially if the watch in question has not been regularly serviced over the years.

In this particular instance we received a vintage Moeris watch in for servicing and repair. Moeris are a quality Swiss manufacturer, with a history dating back to the late 19th century. Inspection of the movement revealed dried up oils and greases, alongside some wear around the centre wheel. A full service and mainspring, alongside work to correct the wear was required.

The movement is completely disassembled and pre-cleaned, with each part inspected. The disassembled movement is then run through our specialist watch movement cleaning machine, while the case was cleaned in an ultrasonic cleaner. After an initial clean, corrective works were conducted to fix the issue with the centre wheel.

On disassembly of the barrel, the mainspring itself was found to be “set”. This is when the mainspring has, in effect, lost much of it’s spring. The upshot being a significant reduction in power. It was also an old carbon steel mainspring – these are more prone to breaking. We needed to measure up the mainspring and barrel to source the correct modern equivalent mainspring for this job.

After cleaning the movement is carefully reassembled and oiled. The dial and hands are then refitted, before the complete movement is fitted into the case.

No additional works were carried out to the case, dial and hands, so these were all left in original condition for our client. All that’s left is to test the watch before it’s ready to go back to its owner.

 

Do you have a vintage watch in need of repair? Get in contact with us to see how we can help. We are able to repair almost any watch and we offer a comprehensive watch repair service. We cater to clients all around the UK thanks to our fully insured freepost watch repairs service. You can also bring watches in to our showrooms based in Lewes and Uckfield, Sussex. As Business Partners of the British Horological Institute and a Feefo Platinum Trusted Service Award accredited business, you can be confident when dealing with us.

Please Contact Us for further information regarding any requirement you may have.

 

Yours sincerely

 

David Clark DGA PJDip PJGemDip CertGA

Managing Director

W.E. Clark & Son Limited

Pre-owned IWC Servicing

The International Watch Company or IWC produce high-quality, luxury watches. While perhaps not as well known as brands like Rolex and Omega, IWC are top quality timepieces and we see many in our workshop – from vintage models passed down as family heirlooms, through to daily wear watches including models like the Portugieser and Portofino.

This IWC watch is one we’ve sourced to go in our collection of pre-owned watches. We have an extensive range of pre-owned watches for sale – including brands like Tag Heuer, Omega and Rolex. You can see the range on our website.

To prepare the watch for sale it is given a thorough clean and service. During a service the watch is completely taken apart, cleaned, reassembled, oiled, adjusted and tested. Also the case is given a light polish as well as an ultrasonic clean. This way you can be confident the timepiece you’re purchasing from us is in excellent working order.

In terms of maintenance for mechanical watches like this, We recommend watches are serviced every 4-5 years. This is to ensure optimal performance of the movement (as the oils and greases needed to keep the movement running properly need to be kept fresh) and to allow the movement to be checked for signs of wear and tear.

Once the service and work to the case are complete, we reassemble the watch. From this point we check the timekeeping before keeping the watch on test to ensure it performs within our acceptable tolerances for a vintage timepiece.

We are sure you’ll agree, it’s a fantastic looking watch and a great addition to our pre-owned range!

Do you have a IWC watch in need of repair? Get in contact with us to see how we can help. We are able to repair many IWC watches and we offer a comprehensive watch repair service. We cater to clients all around the UK thanks to our fully insured freepost watch repairs service. You can also bring watches in to our showrooms based in Lewes and Uckfield, Sussex. As Business Partners of the British Horological Institute and a Feefo Platinum Trusted Service Award accredited business, you can be confident when dealing with us.

We look forward to speaking with you soon

Yours sincerely

David Clark PJDip PJGemDip CertGA
Managing Director
W.E. Clark & Son Limited.

Mainspring

We cater for a huge variety of different watches in our workshop – from modern watches through to vintage pieces upwards of 100 years old. While these watches may look very different, they share many things in common, including having a spring – the mainspring – as a source of power. In this blog post we will briefly discuss the mainspring, how it works and the different types we commonly find in watches.

The mainspring itself is a thin strip of metal curled into a spiral. It’s held inside a part called the barrel. The inner part of the spring hooks onto the barrel arbor, around which the barrel is able to rotate. The outer part of the spring hooks onto the wall of the barrel. Watches with what is known as a “going barrel”, have barrels with teeth on the outside. This engages with the pinion of the centre wheel to power the watch movement.

Vintage watches may have mainsprings made from carbon steel. These springs generally need replacing as the carbon steel is prone to breaking and often found to be “set” – this is when it in effect loses its spring. Modern watch mainsprings are made from an alloy, so these are much hardier. It’s absolutely critical to have a mainspring in excellent condition if you want good results when servicing a watch. Each mainspring needs to be removed from the barrel and checked for breakages, shape and flatness. We do tend to replace mainsprings, just so we can be 100% certain that the source of power is in perfect condition.

There are a number of different types of mainsprings. The variations may include different types of fitting. For example some mainsprings hook onto the wall of the barrel, others are shaped so a section will fit into slots in the top and bottom of the barrel. There are also differences between manual wind and automatic mainsprings. A manual wind mainspring can be wound up but once it reaches a point it will stop. On the other hand, automatic mainsprings are designed to slip around the inside of the barrel once they reach a certain point of winding. This is necessary because the watch is constantly being wound via an automatic winding mechanism as it is worn.

There are a huge variety of types of mainsprings, and within the different categories there are of course many different size measurements. Mainsprings are measured by their height, length and thickness, as well as the type/size/calibre of watch they’re designed for. In the vast majority of cases, we are able to find the correct mainspring through simply knowing the movement calibre, though with older watches and pocket watches, we often still need to measure the spring.

Do you have a watch in need of repair? We are able to repair almost any type and brand of watch. From vintage manual-wind Rotary and Omega, through to modern automatic Rolex and Tag Heuer, we are able to help. If you have a watch in need of repair – do not hesitate to contact us. We offer a fully insured, freepost repairs service to clients all around the UK and our Feefo Platinum Trusted Service Award is testament to the excellent service we provide to our clients.

We look forward to hearing from you soon

Yours sincerely

David Clark PJDip PJGemDip CertGA
Managing Director

Water Damaged Tag Heuer Restoration

Sometimes watches we work on undergo rather dramatic transformations. One instance where this tends to occur is when dealing with water damage. Water damage occurs when, as the name would suggest, water enters the watch. Sensitive watch movements do not get on well with any moisture – this is one of the reasons why it’s important to have your watch regularly checked for water resistance. Water resistance is not a permanent characteristic. Watches rely on a series of seals and for the case to be in excellent condition. Even the smallest breach or a build-up of dirt can compromise the water resistance.

In this instance we received a rather sad looking Tag Heuer Formula 1. Water had entered the case staining the hands, inside of the glass and damaging the movement. We started by disassembling the watch, removing the movement, dial and hands before fully stripping down the case.

On inspection of the movement, it was damaged and as this model uses a non-serviceable movement made by ETA – one of the big names in watch movement production – a complete movement replacement was necessary. To deal with the damaged hands we ordered a complete new set. We have a parts account with Tag Heuer, so we are able to source almost any part we need to repair Tag Heuer watches.

All case parts were ultrasonically cleaned and the glass was carefully cleaned by hand to remove the staining. The case was then reassembled using a complete set of brand-new seals. The dial was also carefully cleaned as best possible.

Now we simply assemble everything. The dial is fitted to the new movement, before the new set of hands are fitted. When fitting the hands, we use a hand press tool made by Horotec. These tools are a great way to ensure the hands are fitted completely parallel with the dial (and each other), and that the spacing is appropriate and uniform. After these are fitted, we fit this back into the case.

Finally, the complete watch is pressure tested to ensure it passes to the full 200m water resistance using our Sigma SM-8850 pressure testing machine. This is able to test watches rated up to 300m water resistant. It tests using air pressure, so it is connected to a compressor which in turn is fitted with a booster as it requires plenty of pressure to reach 100m+. By using air pressure, we are able to test the watch complete, so with or without the movement inside.

A before and after image of the watch.

Do you have a Tag Heuer watch in need of repair? Get in contact with us to see how we can help. We are able to repair almost any Tag Heuer watch and with our Tag Heuer parts access we offer a comprehensive service. We cater to clients all around the UK thanks to our fully insured freepost watch repairs service. As a Feefo Platinum Trusted Service Award accredited business, you can be confident when dealing with us.

We look forward to hearing from you soon

Yours sincerely

David Clark PJDip PJGemDip CertGA
Managing Director