Category: Watch Repairs

Our fully equipped on-site watch workshop offers a full range of repairs – from smaller jobs like battery changes and glass replacements through to full servicing of the vast majority of brands
including Omega, Tag Heuer, Longines, Breitling and Rolex.

For this job we are working on an Omega Speedmaster. This is not a conventional Speedmaster however, as alongside the chronograph complication we have a triple calendar indicating the day,
date and month, as well as a 24 hour indicator. That gives the dial a grand total of 8 hands and two additional indicators. This watch was working on arrival though losing time when put on a
timegrapher.

“Servicing intricate watches like the Omega Speedmaster ensures every detail, from the mainspring to the chronograph, is meticulously restored for peak performance and enduring reliability.”

 

First we disassemble the movement. This Omega Speedmaster uses an Omega calibre 3606A. This is a chronometer rated version of the ETA calibre 7751. No major faults are found, just the usual
signs of deterioration of the old oils and greases. With a movement like this with multiple functions there are many more parts than a conventional “three hand” movement indicating time only. That means there’s lots more to disassemble and check.

Once fully disassembled the movement is cleaned – first going through a manual cleaning process before a cycle in our Elma Solvex RM automatic cleaning machine. When parts are completely
clean and dried, we can commence reassembly. We follow the manufacturers technical guidelines for the correct usage and placement of oil and grease, as well as the use of other treatments such as epilame.

As part of the service we fit a new mainspring and a new reversing wheel. We always endeavour to fit a new mainspring as part of a service, though it's especially important when dealing with a watch like this. The mainspring is housed inside a barrel which is buried in the very depths of the movement underneath all of the chronograph mechanism, so replacing it is not straightforward without the watch being fully stripped down.

Alongside the movement servicing we give the case and bracelet thorough a clean and fit replacement seals as appropriate before conducting a pressure test to confirm water resistance. We
can now reunite all elements of the watch. With the movement refitted and everything checked on the timing machine, we can close the case back before a final pressure test.

With the works completed we now test the watch using an Elma Cyclomotion watch winding machine, as well as testing in static positions and for the correct functioning of all features
including the chronograph and quick change of the day and date/month. After the testing period is complete this fantastic Triple Calendar Omega Speedmaster Chronograph can be reunited with our client.

Summary:
Our on-site watch workshop specialises in expert repairs and servicing for luxury timepieces, including complex models like this Triple Calendar Omega Speedmaster Chronograph. Through meticulous disassembly, cleaning, and reassembly, we follow the highest standards to restore precision and functionality. Key elements, such as the mainspring and reversing wheel, were replaced, and the case and bracelet were cleaned and resealed for water resistance. After rigorous testing, this remarkable timepiece was returned to our client in optimal working condition. Whether your watch requires minor adjustments or intricate servicing, our skilled team ensures exceptional care at every stage.

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Looking to have your Designer Watch Serviced and repaired?

Try our Royal Mail Special Delivery FREEPOST service, all watches are fully insured for up to £20,000 throughout their postal journey from the moment the package leaves your hand to when it is received by you. Book yours in now! 

How to Tell a Real Watch from a Fake

The authentication of vintage watches is a growing concern among collectors and enthusiasts, especially with the prevalence of counterfeit models from popular brands like Rolex. Proper authentication relies on expertise, experience, and a systematic approach to ensure the watch is genuine. Here’s how professionals authenticate vintage timepieces.

Start with a Visual Inspection

The first step is a detailed visual assessment of the watch. Experts evaluate whether the quality aligns with what’s expected from the brand. Key elements include:

• Dial Quality: Authentic watches often feature finely crafted dials with precise printing.
• Hands: The style and finish should match the brand’s known characteristics.
• Case Construction: Materials and craftsmanship are inspected for authenticity.
• Crown Type: For instance, a water-resistant watch claiming 200m resistance should have a screw-down crown. A mismatch is a red flag.

“If a watch claims water resistance of 200m but lacks a screw-down crown, it’s a strong indicator you may be dealing with a replica.”

Serial Numbers and Cross-Referencing

Brands like Tag Heuer and Rolex often include serial and model numbers on their watches. Using tools like the Tag Heuer Extranet, professionals can verify these numbers and cross-reference details such as the dial, hands, and movement. However, it’s crucial to note that serial numbers alone don’t guarantee authenticity, as counterfeiters sometimes replicate genuine numbers.

Inspecting the Movement

Examining the movement is one of the most critical steps in authentication. High-quality Swiss movements are often replicated with increasing precision, making this step challenging even for experts. Professionals look for signs that align with the brand’s craftsmanship and design. This process often requires the expertise of trained watchmakers and valuers.

The Role of Expertise

Authentication of vintage watches can be highly complex, especially for high-end brands. Beyond the visual and technical checks, experience and access to industry knowledge play a pivotal role. Experts can draw upon databases, historical records, and their familiarity with the nuances of vintage models to determine authenticity.

Basic Checks for Buyers

If you’re considering purchasing a vintage watch, start with the following:

1. Quality Check: Does it feel like a premium item?
2. Source Legitimacy: Was it purchased from a reputable dealer?
3. Online Comparison: Can you find similar models online with consistent details?

Even if these checks align, professional evaluation is recommended to confirm authenticity.

Arrange a Professional Valuation

For a comprehensive assessment, it’s best to consult WE Clark Watch Repairs, who offer specialised and expert watch valuation services.

Summary

Authenticating a vintage watch requires careful inspection, technical expertise, and experience. While serial numbers and visual checks can provide clues, examining the movement and seeking professional advice is essential. Trust experts with industry knowledge and the right tools to ensure your vintage watch is genuine and accurately valued.

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Looking to have your Designer Watch Serviced and repaired?

Try our Royal Mail Special Delivery FREEPOST service, all watches are fully insured for up to £20,000 throughout their postal journey from the moment the package leaves your hand to when it is received by you. Book yours in now! 

We offer a full range of repairs from our in-house watch workshop. These include part jobs like battery changes and glass replacements through to full servicing of the vast majority of brands including Omega, Tag Heuer, Longines, Rolex and, as in this instance, Breitling.

For this job we are working on a Breitling Chronomat Evolution Automatic Chronograph. This watch clearly has some kind of fault, as it is not working on arrival with us. The hands move freely and the date changes. The most likely fault is a broken mainspring, though we need to fully disassemble the movement to access the mainspring barrel to confirm this diagnosis. This is due to nature of this chronograph movement (a customised ETA 7750) – we need to remove all the chronograph work in order to fully access the mainspring barrel which lies underneath in the very depths of the mechanism.

During the course of movement disassembly it becomes apparent this watch hasn’t seen a watchmaker for some time as the oils and greases used to ensure correct functioning of the movement have started to dry up.

“A luxury watch is more than a timepiece; it’s a symphony of precision and craftsmanship. Servicing it isn’t just repair, it’s preserving the artistry for generations to come.”

 

As we anticipated, the mainspring was found to be broken. The mainspring acts as the source of power for the watch, so a broken mainspring means a watch is not going to work. We are able to order any part to repair these movements, so we fitted a brand new mainspring. Unless in exceptional circumstances we replace the mainspring as part of a service. This ensures we have a source of power in excellent condition.

When servicing and repairing the movement it is fully disassembled and each part is checked and cleaned – going through a manual cleaning process before a cycle in our Elma Solvex RM automatic cleaning machine. Once parts are completely clean and dried, we can commence reassembly of the movement. During reassembly we follow the manufacturers technical guidelines in terms of oil and grease usage, as well as the use of other treatments such as epilame.

Alongside the movement repairs we give the case a thorough clean. We also fit replacement seals where appropriate before testing the complete case – minus the movement – in both a wet pressure tester and a dry tester to confirm water resistance. We can now reunite all elements of the watch. With the movement refitted and everything checked on the timegrapher, we can close the case back before a final dry pressure test.

With the works completed we now test the watch using an Elma Cyclomotion watch winding machine, as well as testing in static positions and for the correct functioning of all features including the chronograph and quick date change. After the testing period is complete this fantastic Breitling Chronomat Evolution Automatic Chronograph can be reunited with its owner.

Summary:
This blog post chronicles the meticulous process of diagnosing, repairing, and servicing a Breitling Chronomat Evolution Automatic Chronograph. The watch arrived with a suspected mainspring fault, rendering it non-functional. Through full movement disassembly and cleaning, the broken mainspring was replaced, alongside other essential maintenance tasks such as lubrication, case cleaning, and water resistance testing. By adhering to Breitling’s technical standards, the watch was fully restored to optimal performance and rigorously tested before being reunited with its owner.

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Looking to have your Breitling Watch Serviced and repaired?

Try our Royal Mail Special Delivery FREEPOST service, all watches are fully insured for up to £20,000 throughout their postal journey from the moment the package leaves your hand to when it is received by you. Book yours in now! 

We have a fantastic Tag Heuer Carrera with us today for a full watch repair and service. The first models to bear the Carrera name went to market in the mid-1960s and this range is named after the Carrera Panamerica race – so Carrera watches are rooted in the history of motor racing and sports.

This particular model is relatively modern – from within the past 20 years – though it arrived with us in poor condition. Initial inspection identifies some obvious faults with the watch. Notably it is not working and missing the crown and stem. On examination of the movement it clearly hasn’t been serviced in many years, as oils and greases have dried up and wear is identified in various components including the reversing wheels and rotor bearing.

To get this watch back to excellent order it needs significant intervention. It needs a full service with all worn parts changed. New seals are needed, as well as a new crown. The case and bracelet are very scratched and scuffed, so these will be refinished too.

To service a watch it is completely stripped down before the movement parts are thoroughly cleaned. We clean parts both by hand and then using our Elma specialist watch movement cleaning machine – this way we can be certain everything is in good order and as clean as we can possibly make it. During disassembly and our initial “pre-clean” we check each component is in good order. Anything worn needs to be replaced.

The movement powering this watch is a Tag Heuer calibre 5, which is based on the ETA 2824-2 – a very reliable, quality Swiss movement. As a Tag Heuer Authorised Workshop we can obtain any parts needed to repairs these watches.

After cleaning, we can commence the movement rebuild and oiling. We use a range of oils and greases to lubricate the different parts of the watch movement as per the Tag Heuer technical guidance. Once the movement is complete, the dial and hands are refitted.

To refinish the case and bracelet we use our variable speed polishing machine alongside a variety of polishing mops and compounds. The case and bracelet are fully disassembled prior to polishing – that means we separate the bezel, case middle and back, remove the case tube and glass, and remove the bracelet end links. We then work through each part, carefully refinishing each in progressive stages. Everything is ultrasonically cleaned before we can begin a final rebuild.

The case is put together with brand new seals before we can refit the freshly serviced movement. We need to adjust the length of the stem for the case, so this is cut down to length and fitted. With the watch cased up we conduct a final test on the timegrapher before closing the case back and pressure testing for water resistance. Our Sigma pressure testing machine is capable of testing watches up to a rating of 300m – more than sufficient for this model, which passed to its original water resistance rating of 50m.

All that’s left to do is thorough testing of the watch over a number of days before we contact our client to arrange return. Another job well done!

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Looking to have your Tag Watch Serviced and repaired?

Try our Royal Mail Special Delivery FREEPOST service, all watches are fully insured for up to £20,000 throughout their postal journey from the moment the package leaves your hand to when it is received by you. Book yours in now!